Chubby Gator College Mascot Free Crochet Pattern
by Elizabeth Mareno, © Bizzy Crochet and Design 2014, updated 2023
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This pattern was originally created as a baby shower gift for a couple that loves the University of Florida Gators in the South Eastern Conference (SEC).
The South takes their football seriously, y'all!!
But, you don't have to be a football fan to enjoy this adorable free pattern. Chubby Gator is the perfect cute and cuddly project for a baby. Its chubby size makes it extra nice for the baby to squish it with hugs. But, don't stop there- Chubby Gator makes a great gift for anyone who is a fan of the Southern swamp dweller!
This pattern is easy to follow and uses basic stitches such as single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet. You can make a large or a small alligator, depending on the yarn and hook size you use. Chubby Gator has a round body, a chubby little tail, and a friendly face with embroidered eyes. This pattern is perfect for using up your leftover yarns and making a unique gift for the gator lover in your life.
Materials:
4oz worsted
weight acrylic yarn: Used I Love This Yarn in Light Sage (7 oz/199 g/355 yd/325
m)
Less than 1
oz worsted weight acrylic for: tummy patch (light yellow), eyes (white), back frills
(light green).
Small bit of
black for the eyes (6 or 8mm safety eyes can also be used instead of
embroidering the pupils of the eyes.)
#7/4.5mm hook
Lg Eye needle
and straight pins for assembly
Polyester
fiberfill for stuffing
Gauge: 16sc x 17rows = 4” x 4”
Finished Size: Approx. 7-1/2” tall x 9-1/2” front
to back (tail to nose) x approx 5” wide. Of course, yours may vary depending on
how tightly or loosely you hook.
You can use light
worsted or sport weight yarn, and a G or F hook, for a smaller gator.
Abbreviations:
BLO-
back loop only
ch-chain
dc- double crochet
hdc- half double crochet
FLO- front loop only
inv dec- invisible decrease-
insert hook in FLO of next st) twice, (yo, pull through 2 lps)
twice.
(video
help: https://youtu.be/o3eIWOu2-2s?t=43)
Lps- loops
MR- magic ring
PM-
place stitch marker
sc-
single crochet
sc dec- single crochet decrease
sk- skip
sl st- slip stitch
sp- space
st- stitch
PATTERN NOTES:
· Worked
using amigurumi method, in rounds without joining with a sl st. PM to indicate
start of round, moving it up as you work. Eyes and Tummy Patch are worked flat
in rows. Pieces are made separately then joined. Use image as a guide when joining.
BODY:
Work in the round- do not join unless noted. Worked from the bottom up, starting
with green.
Round 1- (RS) MR, 6sc in ring. (6 sc)
Round 2- 2sc in each. (12 sc)
Round 3- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next)
repeat around. (18 sc)
Round 4- (sc in 2sc, 2sc in next)
repeat around. (24 sc)
Round 5- (sc in 3sc, 2sc in next)
repeat around. (30 sc)
Round 6- Round 12- continue in
established increase pattern until Round 12 reaches (sc in 10sc, 2sc in next).
(72 sc) *each row increases by 6sc.*
Round 13- Round 19- sc in each sc
around. (72 sc)
Round 20- (sc in 10sc, inv dec) repeat
around. (66 sc)
Round 21- (sc in 9sc, inv dec) repeat
around. (60 sc)
Round 22- (sc in 8sc, inv dec) repeat
around. (54 sc)
Round 23- Round 30 continue in
established decrease pattern until Round 30 reaches (inv dec). (6 sc). *each
row will decrease by 6sc.*
Start Stuffing
around Round 27.
Join, finish off by weaving the yarn tail
through the sts on Round 30 and pulling tight. Weave in ends. Round 30 will be
the “top” of the body that the head will sit on when you assemble.
Worked from the top down, starting
with green.
Round 1- (RS) MR, 6sc in ring. (6 sc)
Round 2- 2sc in each. (12 sc)
Round 3- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next) repeat
around. (18 sc)
Round 4- (sc in 2sc, 2sc in next)
repeat around. (24 sc)
Round 5- (sc
in 3sc, 2sc in next) repeat around. (30 sc)
Round 6- Round 8- Continue in the established increase pattern until Round 8 reaches (sc in 6sc, 2sc in next).
(48 sc)
Round 9- Round 15- Sc in each sc. (48 sc)
Round 16- (sc in 6sc, inv dec) repeat
around. (36 sc)
Cut, leave a LONG end for sewing. Stuff. Position the head centered over the “top”
of the body and pin in place with straight pins, and whipstitch in place. Finish
stuffing firmly before you completely seal up the edge.
NOSE:
Join at the end of each round. Ch1
does not count as a st
Ch6.
Round 1-(RS) 2sc in second ch from the
hook, 1sc in next 3ch, 3sc in next ch, (working on the opposite side of the
chain) sc in next 3ch, sc in the last ch (the same space as the first 2sc). Join.
(12 sc)
Round 2- ch1, 2sc in join, and next
sc, sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next 3sc, sc in 3sc, 2sc in last sc. Join. (18 sc)
Round 3- ch1, sc in join and next sc, 2sc
in next, pm, sc in 5sc, pm, 2sc in next, sc in 2sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in 5sc,
2sc in the last sc. Join. (22 sc)
Round 4- ch1, sc in join and next, 2sc in
next, sc in 7sc, 2sc in next, sc in 2sc, 2sc in next, sc in 7sc, 2sc in last
sc. Join. (26 sc)
Round 5- Round 8- sc in each sc
around.
Finish off, leaving a long end for
sewing to the face.
NOSTRILS:
You will make the nostrils evenly spaced on
the nose itself.
First Nostril: Attach with a sl st
around the post of first marked stitch on Round 3. Ch3, 2hdc around the same
st, sl st around the next st. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Second Nostril: Sk 3 sc, sl st around
next marked st, 2hdc around next, ch3, sl st around same st. Fasten off and
weave in ends.
Stuff and sew to the face, placing the
bottom edge of the nose on the seam of the body and head.
EYES:
Starting with White. Ch1 does not count as a st.
Ch4.
Row 1- (RS) sc in second ch from the
hook and next ch, 3sc in last ch, (working on the opposite side of the starting
ch) sc in the last 2 ch. (7 sc)
Row 2- (WS) ch1, turn, sc in 2sc, 2sc
in 3sc, sc in 2sc, cut white. (10 sc)
Row 3-(RS) wrong side facing you, join
with green, ch1, turn, working BLO, sc in each sc.
Row 4- (WS) ch1, turn, in both loops,
sc in each sc.
Cut, leaving a long end to sew on to
the face. Flatten the bottom of the eye against the nose but allow the top part
of the eye to come away from the face. That will give you the “look” of the
gator’s brow bone. Embroider the pupil in black.
TAIL:
Round 1- (RS) MR, 5sc in ring. (5 sc)
Round 2- sc in each. Make sure that
you turn the cone right side out before proceeding to Round 3.
Round 3- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next) twice,
sc in last. (7 sc)
Round 4- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next) 3
times, sc in last. (10 sc)
Round 5- sc in each sc around. (10 sc)
Round 6- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next) repeat
around (15 sc)
Round 7- sc in each sc around. (15 sc)
Round 8- (sc in 2sc, 2sc in next) repeat
around. (20 sc)
Round 9- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next) repeat
around. (30 sc)
Round 10- Round 12- sc in each sc
around.
Finish off, leaving a long end for
sewing.
TUMMY PATCH:
Worked from top down. Ch1 does not count
as a st.
Ch5
Row 1- (RS) sc in second ch from the
hook and each ch across. (4 sc)
Row 2- ch1, turn, 2sc in first sc, sc
in 2sc, 2sc in last sc. (6 sc)
Row 3- ch1, turn, sc in each.
Row 4- ch1, turn, sc dec over first
two sc, sc in 2sc, sc dec over last two sc. (4 sc)
Row 5- ch1, turn, sc in each.
Row 6- ch1, turn, 2sc in first sc, sc
in 2sc, 2sc in last. (6 sc)
Row 7- ch1, turn, 2sc in first sc, sc
in 4sc, 2sc in last. (8 sc)
Rows 8-9- ch1, turn, sc in each.
Row 10- ch1, turn, sc dec over first 2sc,
sc in 4sc, sc dec over last 2sc. (6 sc)
Row 11- ch1, turn, sc dec over first 2sc,
sc in 2sc, sc dec over last 2sc. (4 sc)
Row 12- (RS) ch1, turn, sc in each. (4
sc)
Rotate your work 90 degrees- sc in
each row end, ch1 on the corner, sc in the stitches along the top, ch1 on the
corner, sc in each row end, ch1 on the corner, sc along the bottom, ch1, join
with the first sc.
After you have edged, cut yarn, leave
a long end for assembly. Center the tummy patch on the belly with the smaller
section toward the top, pin in place, and attach.
TOP FEET:
Round 1- (RS) MR, 6sc in ring. (6 sc)
Round 2- 2sc in each. (12 sc)
Round 3- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next)
around. (18 sc)
Round 4- working in BLO, sc in
6sc, (sc in next sc, ch2, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next sc) 3 times,
sc in last 6sc. (18 sc, 3 toes)
Round 5- working
in both loops, sc in each sc around- skipping the toes and keeping them to
the front. (18 sc)
Round 6- sc in each sc.
Finish off, leaving a long end for
sewing on. Stuff lightly, pin and sew to the front of the body, finish stuffing
before finishing off.
BOTTOM FEET:
Round 1- Round 3- Repeat as for Top
Feet
Round 4- (sc in 2sc, 2sc in next)
around. (24 sc)
Round 5- working in BLO, sc in 8sc,
(sc in next sc, ch2, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc
in last 8sc. (24 sc, 4 toes)
Round 6- working in both loops, sc in each sc
around- skipping the toes and keeping them to the front. (24 sc)
Round 7- sc in each sc.
Cut, leaving a long end for assembly.
Stuff, sew to the bottom part of the body spread out a little further than the
top feet. Make sure that you overlap the tummy patch just a little bit. Stuff
firmly before finishing off.
BACK FRILLS: make 2
Right frill: ch36, sc in second ch from the hook (this is the top end of the frill), (sk 1 ch, 5dc in next ch, sk 1 ch, sc in the next ch) 8 times, sc in the last 2 chains. (11 sc, 8 5-dc fans)
Left frill: ch36, sc in second ch from
the hook, sc in next 2 ch (this is the bottom end of the frill), (sk 1
ch, 5dc in next ch, sk 1 ch, sc in next ch) repeat to the end. (11 sc, 8 5-dc
fans)
Cut, leaving a long end, and sew to
the back. The right side of your stitches should point to the outside.
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