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Monday, January 23, 2023

Interlocked Diamonds Coaster Pattern

 


Interlocked Diamonds Coaster Pattern

by Elizabeth Mareno 2023

An ad-free PDF is available on Etsy, Ravelry, and my Website.

Materials:

Yarn (per coaster):

DK weight yarn or #3 light yarn

Color A:  Aqua or any color, 10g (yarn used Paintbox DK Cotton, 50g/125m)

Color B:  White, 10g (yarn used Cygnet Kiddies Supersoft DK Acrylic, 100g/298m)

NOTE: Cotton is recommended to use for coasters, however, you can get away with acrylic for the secondary color as long as the main portion of your coaster is cotton to absorb moisture.

Notions:

Hook: F/3.75mm

2-3 stitch markers

 

Gauge: 18sc X 22rows = 4” x 4”

Finished Coaster Size: 5.5” W x 5.75” H

Stitch Tutorial Video on YouTube- this is helpful for getting a hang of the rhythm of the pattern- instructions are also included for the edging.

 

US Terms:

Ch- chain
dc- double crochet
hdc- half double crochet
RS- right side
sc- single crochet
sk- skip
sl st- slip stitch
sp- space
WS- wrong side

  


 PATTERN:

Ch 35 with Color A, place stitch marker in the 8th ch from the hook.

The first two rows are setting up the pattern. The repeats will begin at row 3.

Row 1: (RS) dc in the tenth ch from the hook, dc in the next ch, *ch3, sk the next 3 ch, dc in next 2 ch; repeat from the * across, ending with ch3, sk the next 3 ch, dc in the last ch. Remove the ch from the hook, place a stitch marker in the loop. Do not turn.

Row 2: (RS) working in front of the last row, attach Color B with a sl st to the 8th ch, ch6 (cts as dc + ch3 going forward), working behind the last row, dc in in the same ch, dc in the center of the next ch-3 from the foundation ch, ch3, *working in front of the last row, dc in the same ch, dc in the center of the next ch-3 from the foundation ch, ch3, working behind the last row, dc in the same ch, dc in the center of the next ch-3 from the foundation ch, ch3 ; repeat from the * across, ending with working in front of the last row, dc in the same ch. Remove the ch from the hook, place a stitch marker in the loop.  

Row 3: (WS) Replace Color A onto your hook, ch6, turn, make sure your Color B loop and yarn are on the side facing you before moving on or things will get tangled, working behind the last row, dc in each of the next 2dc from Color A row, ch3, *working in front of the last row, dc in each of the next 2dc from Color A row, ch3, working behind the last row, dc in each of the next 2dc from the Color A row, ch3; repeat from the * across, ending with working in front of the last row, dc in the 4th ch from the ch used for Color B on the foundation ch. Remove the ch from the hook, place a stitch marker in the loop.

Row 4: (WS) Keeping the loop in front of the last Color A row, replace the Color B loop onto the hook and ch6, working behind the last row, dc in the first ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, dc in the next ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, ch3, *working in front of the last row, dc in the same ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, ch3, working behind the last row, dc in the same ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, ch3; repeat from * across, ending with working in front of the last row, dc in the third ch of the turning ch6 from the Color B row. Remove the loop from the hook, place a stitch marker in the loop.

Row 5: (RS) Replace Color A onto your hook, ch6, turn, make sure your Color B loop and yarn are on the side facing you before moving on or things will get tangled, working behind the last row, dc in each of the next 2dc from Color A row, ch3, *working in front of the last row, dc in each of the next 2dc from Color A row, ch3, working behind the last row, dc in each of the next 2dc from the Color A row, ch3; repeat from the * across, ending with working in front of the last row, dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch6 from the Color A row. Remove the ch from the hook, place a stitch marker in the loop.

Row 6: (RS) Keeping the loop in front of the last Color A row, replace the Color B loop onto the hook and ch6, working behind the last row, dc in the first ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, dc in the next ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, ch3, *working in front of the last row, dc in the same ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, ch3, working behind the last row, dc in the same ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, ch3; repeat from * across, ending with working in front of the last row, dc in the third ch of the turning ch6 from the Color B row. Remove the loop from the hook, place a stitch marker in the loop.

Row 7: (WS) Repeat Row 5

Row 8: (WS) Repeat Row 6

Repeat rows 5-8 , ending with a Final Row 7 from below.

Final Row 7: Repeat as for Row 5 but start with a ch5 (this is a hdc + ch3) and change your dc’s to hdc’s so they leave a smaller opening at the top.

EDGING:

Top Edge: ch1, turn, sc in the first hdc, (2sc in ch-3 sp, sc in each dc) across to the turning ch5, 2sc in the ch-3 sp, sc in the 2nd ch from the ch-5. Ch2.

Turn so you are now working on the row ends of the placemat.

First Side Edge: sc in the same sp as the last sc, sc once around the first row end, (skip the post, 2sc around the next row end) repeat until the last row end before the bottom, place one sc in the last row end, sc in the corner, ch2

Turn so you are working on the bottom foundation chain of the placemat.

Bottom Edge: sc in the same sp as the last sc, {sc around the skipped ch from the foundation ch, sk the next ch (this has been worked with the second color), sc around the skipped ch, sc in the next 2dc,} repeat across- this will bring you to the last skipped chain and the turning chain- sc around the skipped chain, skip the worked chain, and sc around the turning ch, remember the turning ch also includes the first dc of the foundation, so find the second ch from the last worked ch that you skipped over and put a sc in that ch, ch2

Turn so you are working the second set of row ends on the placemat.

Second Side Edge: Repeat as for the first side, end with a sc in the same sp as the first sc, ch2 and join.

Cut and finish off.

Tuck your ends in and you’re done!



© Bizzy Crochet and Design 2023

Saturday, January 21, 2023

Snowflakes & Sunshine Dishcloth

 


*This post contains affiliate links, which means that I may receive a small commission (at no cost to you) if you subscribe or purchase something through the links provided. Please note: I will never become an affiliate partner for a product or service that I don’t use and love! Not all links are affiliates.

Snowflakes & Sunshine Dishcloth
by Elizabeth Mareno 2023


You can get all 31 washcloths in a Bundle for $25.00. 

You also get my Bundle Gift Ebook of an additional 11 Dishcloths for Beginners when you use my affiliate link: Buy the Bundle + Get the Ebook Free


Pattern:

Materials List:

Yarn:

1 oz- 100% Cotton worsted weight

Samples used:

Hobby Lobby I Love This Cotton- 100% cotton (3.5 oz/180yds)

Red Heart Scrubby Smoothie- 100% cotton (3.5 oz/153yds)

Notions:

·         US #7/4.5mm crochet hook

·         Yarn needle

Skill: Beginner

Finished Size: 7-1/2”

Gauge:

WW- #7 hook- 16sc x 17 rows = 4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm)

Special Stitches:

·         Picot:  ch3, sl st in 1st ch

Abbreviations: US

Ch- chain

dc- double crochet

hdc- half double crochet

MR- magic ring

Sc- single crochet

Sl st- slip stitch

  

Pattern:

Round 1: MR, 16 dc in ring, join. (16dc)

Round 2: (ch3, sk 1, sl st in next dc) around, join with sl st to first ch. (8 ch-3 sp)

Round 3: sl st into ch-3 sp, ch2 (counts as hdc), 5hdc in ch-3 sp, 6hdc in remaining ch-3 sp, join with sl st to first hdc. (48 hdc)

Round 4: sl st in 2 hdc, ch1, sc in same sp, sc in next sp, (ch4, sk4, sc in next 2 hdc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (16sc, 8 ch-4 sp)

Round 5: sl st to ch-4 sp, ch2 (counts as hdc), 7hdc in ch-4 sp, skipping all sc’s from Rd4- 8hdc in each ch-4 sp around, join with sl st to first hdc. (64 hdc)

Round 6: ch5 (counts as dc + ch2), sk2 hdc, hdc in next 2, (ch2, sk2, dc in next 2, ch2, sk2, hdc in next 2) around, ch2, sk2, dc in the last hdc, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the starting ch5. (16 ch-2 sp, 16 dc, 16 hdc)

Round 7: ch1, skipping all dc and hdc- (sc, hdc, dc, tr, picot, tr, dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-2 sp around, join with a sl st to the first sc. (128 st, 16 picots)




© Bizzy Crochet and Design 2023












Friday, January 20, 2023

Interlocked Diamonds Placemat Pattern


 Interlocking Diamonds Placemat Pattern

by Elizabeth Mareno
An Ad-free PDF is available on Ravelry, Etsy, and my Website.

The placemats are reversible!


Materials:

Yarn (per placemat):

DK weight yarn or #3 light yarn

Color A: Denim (in sample), 1.6 oz/45g (yarn used Cygnet DK in Denim 100g)

Color B: Off-White (in sample), 1.4 oz/41g (yarn used Sirdar Hayfield Bonus DK in Aran 100g)

Notions:

Hook: F/3.75mm

2-3 stitch markers

 

Gauge: 18sc X 22rows = 4” x 4”

Finished Placemat Size: 16” W x 11.5” H

Stitch Tutorial Video on YouTube- this is helpful for getting a hang of the rhythm of the pattern- instructions are also included for the edging.


US Terms:

Ch- chain
dc- double crochet
hdc- half double crochet
RS- right side
sc- single crochet
sk- skip
sl st- slip stitch
sp- space
WS- wrong side

 


 PATTERN:

Ch 95 with Color A, place stitch marker in the 8th ch from the hook.

The first two rows are setting up the pattern. The repeats will begin at row 3.

Row 1: (RS) dc in the tenth ch from the hook, dc in the next ch, *ch3, sk the next 3 ch, dc in next 2 ch; repeat from the * across, ending with ch3, sk the next 3 ch, dc in the last ch. Remove the ch from the hook, place a stitch marker in the loop. Do not turn.

Row 2: (RS) working in front of the last row, attach Color B with a sl st to the 8th ch, ch6 (cts as dc + ch3 going forward), working behind the last row, dc in in the same ch, dc in the center of the next ch-3 from the foundation ch, ch3, *working in front of the last row, dc in the same ch, dc in the center of the next ch-3 from the foundation ch, ch3, working behind the last row, dc in the same ch, dc in the center of the next ch-3 from the foundation ch, ch3 ; repeat from the * across, ending with working in front of the last row, dc in the same ch. Remove the ch from the hook, place a stitch marker in the loop.  

Row 3: (WS) Replace Color A onto your hook, ch6, turn, make sure your Color B loop and yarn are on the side facing you before moving on or things will get tangled, working behind the last row, dc in each of the next 2dc from Color A row, ch3, *working in front of the last row, dc in each of the next 2dc from Color A row, ch3, working behind the last row, dc in each of the next 2dc from the Color A row, ch3; repeat from the * across, ending with working in front of the last row, dc in the 4th ch from the ch used for Color B on the foundation ch. Remove the ch from the hook, place a stitch marker in the loop.

Row 4: (WS) Keeping the loop in front of the last Color A row, replace the Color B loop onto the hook and ch6, working behind the last row, dc in the first ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, dc in the next ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, ch3, *working in front of the last row, dc in the same ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, ch3, working behind the last row, dc in the same ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, ch3; repeat from * across, ending with working in front of the last row, dc in the third ch of the turning ch6 from the Color B row. Remove the loop from the hook, place a stitch marker in the loop.

Row 5: (RS) Replace Color A onto your hook, ch6, turn, make sure your Color B loop and yarn are on the side facing you before moving on or things will get tangled, working behind the last row, dc in each of the next 2dc from Color A row, ch3, *working in front of the last row, dc in each of the next 2dc from Color A row, ch3, working behind the last row, dc in each of the next 2dc from the Color A row, ch3; repeat from the * across, ending with working in front of the last row, dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch6 from the Color A row. Remove the ch from the hook, place a stitch marker in the loop.

Row 6: (RS) Keeping the loop in front of the last Color A row, replace the Color B loop onto the hook and ch6, working behind the last row, dc in the first ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, dc in the next ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, ch3, *working in front of the last row, dc in the same ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, ch3, working behind the last row, dc in the same ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-3 sp of the previous Color B row, ch3; repeat from * across, ending with working in front of the last row, dc in the third ch of the turning ch6 from the Color B row. Remove the loop from the hook, place a stitch marker in the loop.

Row 7: (WS) Repeat Row 5

Row 8: (WS) Repeat Row 6

(Repeat rows 5-8) 11x, ending with a Final Row 7 from below.

Final Row 7: Repeat as for Row 5 but start with a ch5 (this is a hdc + ch3) and change your dc’s to hdc’s so they leave a smaller opening at the top.

EDGING:

Top Edge: ch1, turn, sc in the first hdc, (2sc in ch-3 sp, sc in each dc) across to the turning ch5, 2sc in the ch-3 sp, sc in the 2nd ch from the ch-5. Ch2.

Turn so you are now working on the row ends of the placemat.

First Side Edge: sc in the same sp as the last sc, sc once around the first row end, (skip the post, 2sc around the next row end) repeat until the last row end before the bottom, place one sc in the last row end, sc in the corner, ch2

Turn so you are working on the bottom foundation chain of the placemat.

Bottom Edge: sc in the same sp as the last sc, {sc around the skipped ch from the foundation ch, sk the next ch (this has been worked with the second color), sc around the skipped ch, sc in the next 2dc,} repeat across- this will bring you to the last skipped chain and the turning chain- sc around the skipped chain, skip the worked chain, and sc around the turning ch, remember the turning ch also includes the first dc of the foundation, so find the second ch from the last worked ch that you skipped over and put a sc in that ch, ch2

Turn so you are working the second set of row ends on the placemat.

Second Side Edge: Repeat as for the first side, end with a sc in the same sp as the first sc, ch2 and join.

Cut and finish off.

Tuck your ends in and you’re done!




Enjoy! 

© Bizzy Crochet and Design 2023





Thursday, December 01, 2022

Bauble Candy Christmas Ornament Pattern

 


Bauble Candy Christmas Ornament Pattern

by Elizabeth Mareno 
©Bizzy Crochet and Design 2022
In participation with the CAL-Crochet Along Christmas Ornament CAL 2022

Materials:

1 oz DK Weight yarn- 2 to 3 colors

·         Each textured section (covers 3 rows) uses 12 yds of yarn.

F/3.75mm hook

Polyester Fiberfill

Large eye needle for assembly

Gauge: 18sc x 22rows = 4”x4”

Specialty Stitches:

3 Double Crochet Cluster (3dcCl)- (yo, insert hook into indicated sp, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through two loops) 3 times, yo, pull through all loops on hook

Invisible Decrease (inv dec)- loop the FLO of the next two stitches on your hook, yo, pull a loop through both front loops and complete the sc like normal.

Abbreviations (US terms)

Ch- chain
FLO- front loop only
hdc- half double crochet
inv dec- invisible decrease (see special stitches)
MR- Magic Ring
Sc- single crochet
sp- space
st- stitch(es)

NOTES:

Ch2 does not count as a hdc

 


 

Pattern:

Basic Bauble: Using F hook and Color 1

Rd 1: MR, 6sc in ring, join. (6sc)

Rd 2: ch1, 2sc in each sc around, join. (12sc)

Rd 3: ch1, (sc in 1, 2sc in next) around, join. (18sc)

Rd 4: ch1, (sc in 2, 2sc in next) around, join. (24sc)

Rd 5: ch1, (sc in 3, 2sc in next) around, join. (30sc)

Rd 6: ch2, (hdc in 4, 2hdc in next) around, join with 1st hdc. (36hdc)

Change to Color 2 if striping

Rd 7: ch1, working in the 3rd loop of the hdc, (sc in 5, 2sc in next) around, join. (42sc)

Rd 8: ch1, turn, (sc in 2, 3dcCL in next) around, join. (14- 3dcCL)

Rd 9: ch2, turn, hdc in each cluster and sc around, join. (42hdc)

Change to Color 1 if striping

Rd 10: ch1, working in the 3rd loop of the hdc, sc in each hdc around, join. (42sc)

Rd 11: ch1, turn, (sc in 2, 3dcCL in next) around, join. (14- 3dcCL)

Rd 12: ch2, turn, hdc in each cluster and sc around, join. (42hdc)

Change to Color 2 if striping

Rd 13-15: Repeat Rd 10-12 once.

Change to Color 1 if striping

Rd 16: ch1, working in 3rd loop of the hdc, (sc in 5, inv dec) around, join. (36sc)

Rd 17: ch1, (sc in 4, inv dec) around, join. (30sc)

Rd 18: ch1, (sc in 3, inv dec) around, join. (24sc)

Rd 19: ch1, (sc in 2, inv dec) around, join. (18sc) Start Stuffing

Rd 20: ch1, (sc in 1, inv dec) around, join. (12sc)

Rd 21: ch1, inv dec around, join. (6sc)

At this point you can weave in the ends.

 

Optional Top & Bottom Decorations:

EXTRA NOTE: Pom-poms would make great tops and bottoms for these ornaments as well!

Curly Cues: (Make 2)

With choice of color

ch10, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 7, sl st in the last ch (repeat 2 more times)- (3 curly cues)

After the third curly cue- cut leaving a long end to attach to the top or the bottom.

 

 

 Frills: (Make 2)

With choice of color

Rd 1: MR, 6sc in ring, join.

Rd 2: ch8, sl st in 1st sc, (ch10, sl st in next sc, ch8, sl st in sm sc) around, finish with ch10, sl st in 1st sc.

·         On one of the frills make an extra loop of 20 chs across the middle of the frill to use as a hanging loop.

Cut leaving a long end to attach to the top or the bottom.


I hope you enjoy this pattern- make sure to tag me on social media so I can see your makes! And don't forget to check the CAL-Crochet Along blog throughout the month of December for all of this year's Christmas Ornaments! ~ Biz


 


 

Thursday, August 25, 2022

Gingerbread House CAL 2022

Thank you to everyone who participated in this year's Christmas Blanket CAL! You made it amazing!

Options, options, options...that's the name of the game. Think of it in terms of decorating the walls of your actual gingerbread house. Do you like it with more or less frosting? Do you like lots of colorful candies or just a little? You can decorate your blanket any way you like. This will be a great time to play with color. 

There are more than 10 different stitch patterns in these blankets, with only four of them foundational. The rest of the stitch patterns are where you get to play. 
All of the pattern downloads will be available in both US and UK terminology.

The full pattern is now available for download: Etsy, Ravelry, and my Website.


Frosting Theme


Candy Theme


Beach Theme


Silver and Red Theme

So, why is this CAL different from any other CAL? Because it's more than just making a blanket together- it's a two-month Christmas party! If you join the Bizzy Crochet CAL Group on FB you will be a part of an International community that loves Christmas. 

But, it's more than just that. This year I will be featuring a guest designer every week of the CAL. Not only will you get to meet a fantastic designer who might be new to you, but everyone that signs up for the CAL will be blessed with a free pattern from each designer! The guest designer list is one you don't want to miss!!

That alone should be enough to get you excited, but there's more! 
We will be kicking off the CAL with a week-long Pre-CAL Party Sept 25-29. 
Every Saturday throughout the CAL we will have LIVE Coffee Chats. 
Every week we will have new games like Bingo and Treasure Hunts with prizes. 
Of course, if you have already been in a Bizzy CAL you know that it's as much about the community as it is about the pattern. I hope you join us in the fun!!

Click the picture below to find out more.
And if you have questions, remember I'm just an email away. 



For your viewing pleasure...the Bizzy Testers:


Alisha used a short repeat gradient for her candy colors which helped her achieve her different colored bobbles.



Debbi kept her colors minimal and simple, choosing only a burgundy red for the center and all white for the rest of her blanket. 



Mik chose waves of green and red that created a fun contrast to the rest of her white frosting sections. 



Niamh made her sample out of crochet thread so she could use it as a table decoration for the holidays. She said it finished up at about 25" x 25".



Tiffiny went with a yummy dark chocolate cookie for her gingerbread house and changed up some of her frosting work to resemble peppermints. 



Vannessa chose a vibrant variegated yarn to achieve a colorful candy look in her blanket.



Wini chose a completely unique color palette that makes you think of pink frosted chocolate cookies with mint chips.  Yum! 




 Thank you to my amazing testers! 
Hopefully, you have found something to inspire you! 

Click this button 🠟 to join the CAL Group on Facebook.




















Thursday, August 11, 2022

Under the Sea Toy Bag Pattern


*This post contains affiliate links, which means that I may receive a small commission (at no cost to you) if you subscribe or purchase something through the links provided. Please note: I will never become an affiliate partner for a product or service that I don’t use and love! Not all links are affiliates.

Introducing the Under the Sea Toy Bag 

by Elizabeth Mareno 2022


The Under the Sea Toy Bag pattern consists of a yellow submarine with a working door and a space inside to store all the characters, which are an octopus, a squid, a sea turtle, and a stingray! Create an undersea adventure for your favorite little ones and watch them dive deep into their imaginations!



Octopus


Sea Turtle


Squid
(designed after the squid flotation device Lani carries in Surf's Up)


Stingray




The supplies you will need to make this pattern are:

Submarine: Worsted Weight

1 skein- 7oz yellow (Used "I Love This Yarn" Yellow)

1 oz Dark Grey (Used "Red Heart Super Saver" Grey Heather)

1 oz White (Used "I Love This Yarn" White)

Characters: DK weight

Squid: 1 oz Red (used Paintbox DK- color #414 Rose Red)

Octopus: 1 oz Blue (used Scheepjes Catona- color #146 Vivid Blue)

Stingray: 1 oz Purple (used Scheepjes Catona- color #394 Shadow Purple)

            1 oz White (used Stylecraft SpecialDK- color #1001 White)

Sea Turtle: 1 oz Green (used Scheepjes Catona- color #205 Kiwi)

            1 oz Dark Grey (used ScheepjesCatona- color #242 Metal Grey)

Small bit of DK white for each character’s eyes.

Notions:

Hook: #7/4.5mm, G/4.0mm

8- 4mmsafety eyes

1 – 5/8” button for bag closure

Large Eye Needle/Scissors

Polyester Fiberfill


Pattern purchase information below!

Wednesday, July 06, 2022

From That to This: The Evolution of a Submarine

Hey everyone! Today is the first day after a holiday weekend (the 4th of July) and I have to switch gears and get myself back in "work" mode. So, I decided to share with you the journey of a pattern design I am putting out in August. I was originally going to wait until September, but my testers are just zooming through so I'll be able to release it sooner. 


*This post contains affiliate links, which means that I may receive a small commission (at no cost to you) if you subscribe or purchase something through the links provided. Please note: I will never become an affiliate partner for a product or service that I don’t use and love! Not all links are affiliates.

Around 2015 I was into designing toy bags a lot more than I have been in recent years. It all came to sort of a screeching halt when I created two bags that I just couldn't get right. The Prairie Bag and a submarine bag that I never published. I finally revamped the Prairie bag and released in 2017, but the submarine bag kept moving with me from house to house never being completed. 

The main reason it never got completed was because I had made a stack on the top of the sub that had plastic canvas around it to hold it upright causing a myriad of issues. haha! It was too small for hands to reach into the bag and get the characters out of it and it was a scratch hazard for little ones. In the picture below you can see how tiny the top was. 


So, I took the scissors to it and cut the stack off the top. It definitely opened up nicely, but I still decided I needed to remake it so that I could figure out a different top. This is what I came up with...





The stack definitely looked more "submarine" to me after I was done, and hands could reach in and out of the bag- so I was successful, right? Not really. I wasn't happy with it and I couldn't put my finger on it. But, I moved on to the animals because I couldn't place my unhappiness with the pattern up to this point and this is where everything went completely wrong for me. 

I started with the squid. I wanted it to look like the squid from Surfs Up because it's a hilarious character- and I didn't want to make the characters too elaborate and difficult to make. That sucks the fun out of everything. 



Lani from Surf's Up. She's a lifeguard and the squid is her safety rescue tube. The squid has expressions throughout the whole thing- he talks with his eyes. It's hilarious and one of my favorite animated movies. If you've never seen it- you need to and you can get a copy here!


By the time I got him done I knew the aesthetic was completely wrong for the grey sub. This guy was cute and the grey sub was really dark and sort of gothy looking. But, I thought...let me try another animal and see if I feel any differently, so I moved on to the octopus. But, that just sealed the deal for me. These guys were too cute for the grey sub.  



Since everyone was too cute for the current sub, I decided that I wanted to put them in something more cartoony and a yellow submarine seemed like the perfect answer. I based my design off of this picture. 


I tried to keep it true to form as much as possible. With this being a bag, I needed one of the windows to serve as a door. In order to get one big enough to use as a door- I had to cut the windows down to just one per side. I also left the rivets off of the seams. I'm sure if someone added some in it would just complete the look, but it was too fiddly for me. I decided simple was better.


I was very happy with how it came out. After I got my sub squared away I was able to come up with the remaining characters much easier. I opted to go with a sea turtle and a stingray. I'm really happy with the whole gang, and I hope you guys love it as much as I do. 

Like I said at the beginning, my testers are hard at work cleaning up all the little details in the pattern and it should be ready to put out in August. 






See you soon!!


Interlocked Diamonds Coaster Pattern

  Interlocked Diamonds Coaster Pattern by Elizabeth Mareno 2023 An ad-free PDF is available on Etsy , Ravelry , and my Website . Materials: ...