Chubby Elephant College Mascot Crochet Pattern

Are you a big fan of a certain college in Alabama? 

Do you like creating super squishy, chubby amigurumi?

 My chubby elephant college mascot crochet pattern is just what you need! 

This delightful pattern allows you to craft a lovable and chubby amigurumi elephant that will bring joy and warmth to anyone lucky enough to receive it.

 Plus, you can showcase your school pride in a fun and creative way with your chubby college mascot! You can customize it to represent your school colors and take him to every game…or you can create a snuggle buddy for an alumni baby! Either way, it’s an adorable way to display your loyalty and enthusiasm.

One 7 oz skein of gray will get you a 7-1/2” elephant. It’s just big enough for baby to snuggle and small enough to tuck into a bag (or on a shelf).

I used a #7/4.5mm hook and #4 worsted-weight yarn. 

 You can pick up an ad-free version (in US or UK terminology) on Etsy, Ravelry, or My Website (click a picture below) 

OR keep scrolling for the free pattern (available in US terminology only).

Chubby Elephant College Mascot Pattern

by Elizabeth Mareno © 2023

Materials:

4.5oz worsted weight acrylic yarn: Used I Love This Yarn in Graymist (7 oz/199 g/355 yd/325 m)

Small bit of white and black for the eyes (6 or 8mm safety eyes can also be used instead of embroidering the pupils of the eyes.)

#7/4.5mm hook

Lg Eye needle and straight pins for assembly

Polyester fiberfill for stuffing

Gauge: 16sc x 17rows = 4” x 4”

Finished Size: Approx. 7-1/2” tall x 6-1/2” front to back (butt to nose) x approx 5” wide. Of course, yours may vary depending on how tightly or loosely you hook.

You can use light-worsted or sportweight yarn, and a G or F hook, for a smaller gator.

Abbreviations:

BLO- back loop only
ch-chain
dc- double crochet
hdc- half double crochet
FLO- front loop only
inv dec- invisible decrease- insert hook in FLO of next st) twice, (yo, pull through 2 lps) twice.
(video help: https://youtu.be/o3eIWOu2-2s?t=43)
Lps- loops
MR- magic ring
PM- place stitch marker
sc- single crochet
sc dec- single crochet decrease
sk- skip
sl st- slip stitch
sp- space
st- stitch

 PATTERN NOTES:

·    Worked using the amigurumi method, in rounds without joining with a sl st. PM to indicate the start of the round, moving it up as you work. Eyes and Tummy Patch are worked flat in rows. Pieces are made separately and then joined.  Use the images as a guide when joining.

ASSEMBLY PICTURES: To keep the loading time down and also to take up less space, I have gathered all of the assembly and progress pictures in a Google Docs folder for you to access HERE. 

BODY:

Work in the round- do not join unless noted. Worked from the bottom up, starting with gray.

Round 1- (RS) MR, 6sc in ring. (6 sc)

Round 2- (RS) 2sc in each. (12 sc)

Round 3- (sc in 1, 2sc in next) repeat around. (18 sc)

Round 4- (sc in 2, 2sc in next) repeat around. (24 sc)

Round 5- (sc in 3, 2sc in next) repeat around. (30 sc)

Round 6- Round 12- continue in established increase pattern until Round 12 reaches (sc in 10, 2sc in next). (72 sc) *each row increases by 6sc.*

Round 13- Round 19- sc in each sc around. (72 sc)

Round 20- (sc in 10, inv dec) repeat around. (66 sc)

Round 21- (sc in 9, inv dec) repeat around. (60 sc)

Round 22- (sc in 8, inv dec) repeat around. (54 sc)

Round 23- Round 30 continue in established decrease pattern until Round 30 reaches (inv dec). (6 sc). *each row will decrease by 6sc.*

Start Stuffing around Round 27.

Join, cut, finish off by weaving the yarn tail through the sts on Round 30 and pulling tight. Weave in ends. Round 30 will be the “top” of the body that the head will sit on when you assemble.

 HEAD:

Worked from the top down. Use gray.

Round 1- (RS) MR, 6sc in ring. (6 sc)

Round 2- (RS) 2sc in each. (12 sc)

Round 3- (sc in 1, 2sc in next) repeat around. (18 sc)

Round 4- (sc in 2, 2sc in next) repeat around. (24 sc)

Round 5- (sc in 3, 2sc in next) repeat around. (30 sc)

Round 6- Round 8- Continue in established increase pattern until Round 8 reaches (sc in 6, 2sc in next). (48 sc)

Round 9- Round 15- sc in each. (48 sc)

Round 16- (sc in 6, inv dec) repeat around. (42 sc)

Cut. Leave a LONG end for sewing.  Stuff. Position head centered over the “top” of the body and pin in place with straight pins, whipstitch in place. Finish stuffing firmly before you completely seal up the edge.

TRUNK:

Worked from the tip to the back, use gray.

Round 1- (RS) MR, 6sc in ring. (6 sc)

Round 2- (RS) 2sc in each. (12 sc)

Round 3- BLO, sc in each (12 sc)

Round 4- both loops, sc in each.

Round 5- Round 8- sc in each. (12 sc)

Round 9- sc in 3, hdc in 6, sc in 3. (6 sc, 6 hdc)

Round 10- Round 11- repeat Round 9.

Round 12- (sc in 1, 2sc in next) repeat around. (18 sc)

Round 13- (sc in 2, 2sc in next) repeat around. (24 sc)

Round 14- sc in each.

Cut. Leave a long end to attach to the face. Stuff the trunk and sew the trunk to the face so that it curves to the right or the left and not up or down.

EARS: ( make 2- left and right)

Worked in rows back and forth. Use gray.

LEFT EAR:

Ch11.

Row 1- (RS) sc in second ch from hook and each ch across, ch1, turn. (10 sc)

Row 2- (WS) sc in first st, sk1, 6dc in next, sk2, sc in 5, sl st into the side of the sc you just worked into from Row 1. (You will count this sl st as a new sc), ch1, turn. (7 sc, 6 dc)

Row 3- sc into new sc and next 5, dc in next st, 2dc in next 4, dc in next, sc in last. Ch1, turn. (7 sc, 10 dc)

Row 4- sk sc, sc in next dc, dc in 2, 2dc in 5, dc in 2, sk sc, sc in 5, sl st in the side loop created from the last sl st. (sl st counts as a new sc), ch1, turn. (7 sc, 14 dc)

Row 5- sc in new sc and next 5, hdc in next, dc in 5, 2dc in 6, dc in 3, rotate work to crochet into the row ends, ch1, 3dc in first row end, 1dc in the next, hdc in next 2, sc in the last. Join. (8 sc, 3 hdc, 23 dc)

Cut. Leave a long end to attach to the head.

RIGHT EAR:

Ch11.

Row 1- (RS) sc in second ch from hook and each ch across, ch1, sl st in the same sp as last sc, do not ch1, turn. (10 sc) place a sm in ch-1 sp at the end of this row.

Row 2- (WS) sl st in sl st, sc in 5, sk2, 6dc in next, sk1, sc in last, ch1, turn. (7 sc, 6 dc)

Row 3- sc in first st, dc in next, 2dc in next 4, dc in next, sc in 5 and sl st, sl st into the side loop created from the last sl st, sl st in the side of the sc from Row 1, ch1, turn. (7 sc, 10 dc)

Row 4- sk first sl st, sl st in next sl st, sc in 5, sk sc, dc in 2, 2dc in 5, dc in 2, sc in next, sl st to last sc, fasten off. (7 sc, 14 dc)

Row 5- (RS) Work in row ends of Rows 1-4, with RS facing re-join yarn in marked ch-sp (see pictures below). ch1, sc in the same ch-sp, beg in end of Row 1 hdc in next 2 row ends, dc in next row end, 3dc in last row end, ch1, sk sl st, dc in next 3st, 2dc in 6, dc in 5, hdc in next, sc in 5, sc in sl st, sl st to row end one row below. (8 sc, 3 hdc, 23 dc)

Cut. Leave a long end for attaching.

EYES: (make 2- left and right)

Eyes are made in rows. Start with white.

LEFT EYE:

Row 1- (WS) MR, 5sc in ring, ch2, turn. (5 sc)

Row 2- (RS) 2hdc in 3, hdc in next, sc in last. (7 hdc, 1 sc)

Cut. Leaving a longer piece for attaching the bottom part of the eye to the face.

RIGHT EYE:

Row 1- (WS) MR, 5sc in ring, ch1, turn. (5 sc)

Row 2- (RS) sc in first st, hdc in next, 2hdc in 3, ch2, sl st to join with last sc. (1 sc, 7 hdc)

Cut. Leaving a longer piece for attaching the bottom part of the eye to the face.

EDGE for both eyes: With RS facing, using gray, join with sl st to the right corner of the eye, (ch1, sl st in the next st) repeat to the next corner.

Cut. Leaving a long end to attach the upper edge of the eye.

Embroider pupils on the eyes or attach safety eyes before sewing them in place.

TUSKS: (make 2)

Worked in the round. Use white.

Round 1- (RS) MR, 5sc in ring. (5 sc)

Round 2- (RS) sc in each. (make sure the RS is out before moving on)

Round 3- (2sc in 1, sc in next) twice, sc in last. (7 sc)

Round 4- sc in each.

Round 5- (2sc in 1, sc in next) three times, sc in last (10 sc)

Round 6- (2sc in 1, sc in 2) three times, sc in last. (13 sc)

Cut. Leave a long end for attaching.

Fold in half so that the slight curve points up- sew to the sides of the trunk.

TOP FEET: (make 2)

Feet are worked in the round. Use gray.

Round 1- (RS) MR, 6sc in ring. (6 sc)

Round 2-(RS) 2sc in each. (12 sc)

Round 3- (sc in 1, 2sc in next) repeat around. (18 sc)

Round 4- BLO, sc in each.

Round 5- both loops, sc in each.

Round 6- sc in each.

Cut. Leave a long end for attaching.

Embroider toenails onto the foot, skipping one stitch between toes. (see pictures below)

 BOTTOM FEET: (make 2)

Round 1-Round 3- Repeat as for Top Feet

Round 4- (sc in 2, 2sc in next) repeat around. (24 sc)

Round 5- BLO, sc in each

Round 6- both loops, sc in each.

Round 7- sc in each.

Cut. Leave a long end for attaching. Embroider toenails on like the Top Feet.

Lightly stuff feet before attaching to give you a more solid base for pinning- finish stuffing to your desired chunkiness before closing up completely.

 Tail:

With gray.

Ch14.

Sl st in second ch from hook and the next 9 ch, sc in next, hdc in last 2. (10 sl st, 1 sc, 2 hdc)

Cut. Leave a long tail for attaching- place the hdc in the vertical position when you sew it on.

Cut (3) 4” long pieces of gray yarn, fold them in half and secure them to the tail tip.

Cut one or two extra pieces for the tuft on his head.

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Blog: https://bizzycrochet.blogspot.com

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Please, feel free to contact me on social media with any questions concerning the pattern. If you do share pictures, please make sure they are your own…but, I would love it if you would tag & link to me!!

Also, you can sell anything you make from the pattern, but you may not sell the pattern or claim it as your own. Thanks!! 😊

 

Happy Crocheting!!

Biz