Mandala Market Bag

 

Mandala Market Bag Crochet Pattern

If you’ve been on the hunt for the perfect crochet market bag, look no further—the Mandala Market Bag is here to make your fall adventures prettier, sturdier, and more sustainable! 🍂

Crocheted with thin cotton macramé cord instead of traditional yarn, this bag offers extra strength and durability, making it ideal for hauling all your farmers market finds—fresh produce, flowers, or even handmade goodies from your favorite local vendors. Its beautiful mandala design gives it a stylish, eye-catching flair while the roomy circular shape provides plenty of space for fruits, veggies, or your next crochet project. When the day’s done, it folds neatly to slip into your purse or pocket—practical and gorgeous! 

With the holidays approaching, the Mandala Market Bag also makes a thoughtful Christmas gift for your eco-conscious friends and family. Handmade, reusable, and full of charm, it’s a present that’s as functional as it is beautiful.

The pattern is forever free on my blog, but if you prefer a printable, ad-free version, you can grab the PDF on Ravelry or my website.

 

Whether you’re strolling through fall markets, heading to the beach for a sunny escape, or planning handmade gifts this season, the Mandala Market Bag is your go-to eco-friendly tote for every occasion. 🌿🧶

Mandala Market Bag by Elizabeth Mareno 2025

Material:

1mm Biodegradable Cotton Macrame Cord (450m/ 1mm)

Notions:

#7/4.5mm hook

Finished Size: Approximately 20” W x 26” L

Special Stitches:

V-Stitch (V-st): (dc, ch2, dc) in the same space

Abbreviations: US

Ch- chain
Ch-sp- chain space
Ch-1-sp- chain 1 space (number denotes # of chains)
Cts- counts
Dc- double crochet
Rd- round
RS- Right Side
Sc- single crochet
Sk- skip
Sl st- slip stitch
WS- wrong side

Pattern Notes:

Body of bag is worked in the round without turning, with RS always facing. Each round is closed with a slip stitch.

Handles are worked in rows, turning at the end of each row.

 

 

Pattern:

Rd 1: ch6, join to make a circle.

Rd 2: ch4 (cts as dc + ch1), (dc, ch1) 11x in the circle, join with 3^rd ch of beg ch4.  (12dc, 12 ch-1 sp)

Rd 3: sl st to ch-1 sp, ch3 (cts as 1^st dc), dc in the same ch-1 sp, (ch1, sk dc, 2dc in the next ch-1 sp) 11x, ch1, sk last dc, join with 1^st dc. (24 dc, 12 ch-1 sps)

Rd 4: ch3, dc in the next dc, 2dc in the next ch-1 sp, (dc in each of the next 2dc, 2dc in the next ch-1 sp) 11x, join with 1^st dc. (48 dc)

Rd 5: ch5 (cts as dc + ch2), (sk dc, dc in the next dc, ch2) 23 x, ch2, join with 1^st dc. (24 dc, 24 ch-2 sps)

Rd 6: sl st to ch-2 sp, ch3, dc in the same ch-2 sp, (ch2, 2dc in the next ch-2 sp) 23 x, ch2, join with the 1^st dc. (48 dc, 24 ch-2 sps)

Rd 7: ch3, dc in the next dc, (2dc in the next ch-2 sp, dc in each of the next 2 dc) 23x, 2dc in the next ch-2 sp, join with the 1^st dc. (96 dc)

Rd 8: ch5, sk dc, dc in the next dc, (ch2, sk dc, dc in the next dc) 47x, ch2, join with the 3^rd ch of beg ch5. (48 dc, 28 ch-2 sps)

Rd 9: sl st to ch-2 sp, ch3, dc in the same sp, (ch1, sk dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp) 47x, ch1, sk last dc, join. (96 dc, 48 ch-1 sps)

Rd 10: ch3, dc in each ch-1 sp & dc around. (144 dc)

Rd 11: ch5, dc in the same st, (sk 2 dc, V-stitch- see special stitches- in the next dc) 47x, sk last 2 dc, join with 3^rd ch of beg ch 5. (48 V-stitch)

Rd 12: sl st to ch-2 sp, ch5, dc in the same sp, V-stitch in each ch-2 sp around, join with 3^rd ch of beg ch 5. (48 V-stitch)

Rd13-17: repeat Rd 12.

Rd 18: sl st to ch-2 sp, ch5, dc in the same ch-2 sp, (dc in the next ch-2 sp, V-stitch in the next two ch-2 sps) 15x, dc in the next ch-2 sp, V-stitch in the last ch-2 sp, join with 3^rd ch of beg ch 5. (16 dc, 32 V-stitch)

Rd 19: sl st to ch-2 sp, ch5, dc in the same sp, V-stitch in each ch-2 sp around, join with the 3^rd ch of beg ch5. (32 V-stitch)

Rd 20-21: repeat Rd 19

Rd 22: sl st to ch-2 sp, ch5, dc in the same sp, V-stitch in each of the next two ch-2 sp, (dc in the next ch-2 sp, V-stitch in each of the next three ch-2 sp) repeat around to the last ch-2 sp, dc in the last ch-2 sp, join with 3^rd ch of beg ch5. (24 V-stitch, 8 dc)

Rd 23: sl st to ch-2 sp, ch5, dc in the same sp, V-stitch in each ch-2 sp around, join with 3^rd ch of beg ch5. (24 V-stitch)

Rd 24-25: repeat Rd 23. DO NOT CUT YARN. CONT TO HANDLE SIDE #1

 

HANDLE SIDE #1: The Handle Side sections are worked in Row

NOTE: if you want longer straps, do more rows on each side equally.

Row 26: (RS) slst to the first ch-2 sp, ch3, V-stitch in the next six ch-2 sp, dc in the next ch-2 sp, leave remaining stitches unworked. (2 dc, 6 V-stitch)

Row 27: ch3, turn, V-stitch in the next six ch-2 sp, dc in the last dc.

Rows 28-42: repeat Row 27. Cut leaving an end long enough to weave in.

 

HANDLE SIDE #2:

With the RS facing you on Rd 25, skip the 4 unworked ch-2 spaces. Reattach to the next ch-2 sp with a ch3.

Row 26: V-stitch in the next six ch-2 sp, dc in the next ch-2 sp, leave remaining stitches unworked.

NOTE: You should have 4 remaining unworked ch-2 sps.

Rows 27-42: Repeat as for the Handle Side #1.

DO NOT CUT.

 

Assembly & Handle Edge:

Holding the WS ends of the straps together (so you are working on the RS of the straps), sl st the two edges working through both loops of the stitches on Rows 42.

Rotate your bag to begin working in the row ends of the handles.

Ch1, sc evenly around one side of the handle and bag, join with the first sc of the side and cut.

(I typically put 2sc in each ch-2 sp and 1sc in each dc)

Re-attach yarn and repeat as for the border of the first side.

Weave in all of your ends.

© Bizzy Crochet and Design, 2025