How to Custom Size a Crocheted Hat!

How to Custom Size a Crocheted Hat!!

Figuring out how to make a hat to a specific circumference and length is not as hard as one would think. This formula works best for a closer fitting hat (think beanie or ski, not tam or slouchy). I am going to explain this in “beginner’s” terms. When I tried to learn how to do this, every “lesson” I read assumed that you understood math. I won’t assume that of you, because I do not understand math. So, here we go:

1) Take a flexible tape measure or a piece of string and wrap it around your head at the widest part, which is usually your forehead area. If you over lap your pieces, make sure you pinch or otherwise mark where you intersect your pieces. This isn’t terribly scientific but remember that the more “finger” you get behind your measuring piece, the bigger your measurement will be.

2) If you are using a flexible tape measure, look at your number. If you are using a piece of string, measure your piece of string at the intersect. This is your CIRCUMFERENCE.

3) Using a calculator, divide your circumference by 3.1415927 (PI). This will give you your ACTUAL DIAMETER. (Example: my head circumference is 23”/ 3.1415927= 7.32112727. Obviously, that number is too big to be workable, so we round to the nearest quarter number. I would round mine to a 7.25”.)

4) Here it gets a little funky. You will take your ACTUAL DIAMETER number and minus an inch off. We will call this our WORKING DIAMETER. So, my new WORKING DIAMETER will be 6.25”.

Why do we do this? I can’t give you a scientific reason, but I can give you a crocheter’s reason. Having made a few hats using the actual diameter, I discovered they weren’t so great as a hat. But, if I flipped it over and threw a handle on it they made a really nice handbag. Use my mistakes as a learning tool and turn your ACTUAL DIAMETER into a WORKING DIAMETER. 

5) Ok, now, in your increase rounds is where you will become an obsessive measure(er). I, actually, measure after each round until I get to know a pattern well. Work increase rounds until you reach your WORKING DIAMETER. After that, no more increases should be needed.

6) After you have reached your WORKING DIAMETER in your increase rounds, you can then start working the “body” of the hat. These are just round after round of your chosen stitch that will be worked until you reach the desired length. Take into account any trims rows you will want to put on the bottom of your hat when you are deciding on a finish length. 

I use Crochet Geek's Hat Size Chart for every single hat I make. I printed it off and I keep it in my crochet journal as a guide for all my hats. I wish my head were a computer and could just remember all those numbers, but it isn't and can't, so her chart is super handy!!

Christmas Beanies ~ Knit Pattern

I decided to share with you my Christmas beanies. I looked and looked and looked for a pattern that spoke to me and was something that I really wanted to make over and over and over again. I never found one, so I made up my own pattern.

My original idea was just to have something to share as gifts with my cousins kids because they had invited us to go over for Christmas Eve and I didn't want to walk in empty handed. Well, the idea grew. There will be a total of 10 teenagers (including family and girlfriends), an 8 year old and a new born there...all of them cousins (except the girlfriends, of course). So, I decided to make a beanie for ALL of the kids. I finished the last one yesterday. I loved making every single one of them because they were all a blank canvas for my creativity. Endless possibilities for color combinations and stripes. lol. BUT...I was so very glad when the last one was complete.

This is the biggest group of kids. We have an 18 yo w/a gf, 16 yo w/a gf, a 14 yo and an 8 yo. The 8 yo's hat turned out a little larger because I went by rows instead of measurements on a couple of hats. I figured out what went wrong and corrected myself for the rest of them, but hers is a little longer than the rest.

Used: hat 1: Wool Ease, hat 2: RH Soft & HL Love, hat 3: Wool Ease, hat 4: LB Jiffy & HL Love, hat 5: Wool Ease & HL Love, hat 6: RHSS

This is a brother/sister duo. Blue/gray is his, purple/black is hers. I was struggling with what colors to make for them, so I asked their mom. They were the only ones besides my kids that actually got to choose colors.

Used: hat 1: L&T Impeccable & RHSS, hat 2: RHSS & HL Love

These are for my kids. I am actually going to wrap them up and hand them out with the other kids' hats, even though my daughter has modeled hers a few times. I always have to snatch it back and say "you can't have that now!"

Used: hat 1: L&T Impeccable & RHSS, hat 2: Wool Ease & Caron SS

Last, but not least, we have the last set of brothers. The oldest was born 8 hours after my daughter and the youngest was born 2 days ago. I just couldn't leave the baby out, so I modified the pattern by a few stitches and rows and went to town. I actually love both of these hats. :)

Used: hat 1: RHSS, hat 2: TLC Amore

I am going to share with you the very basic pattern. Soooooper simple. And I'll share my "straight lines" method for my color changes.

Christmas Beanies (very stretchy, great for scraps)

by Elizabeth Mareno 2011

Materials:

About 2 ozs Main color, less for Contrast color, Worsted Weight!! :)

(Yarns Used: LB Wool-Ease, LB Jiffy, RHSS, HL I Love This Yarn, Caron Simply Soft, RH Soft, TLC Amore (discontinued?)& Loops n Threads-Impeccable)

size 8 dpns or circular needles

place marker (optional)

end stoppers (optional)

large eye needle for tucking ends in

ADULT SIZE: fits an average head up to 23".

co 85 stitches. I cast on 30-needle 1, 30-needle 2, 25-needle 3. I also used end stoppers to keep my stitches from sliding off. Join without twisting to make a circle, if you need a place marker, put it at the beginning of the join.

k3, p2 around.
You may stripe whenever you like, the pattern stays the same until you reach 6" in length from the beginning. When I stripe, I will slip the first stitch purlwise when I am beginning my second row of that color, this helps to pull the row "up" and hide the color change. If you are doing single rows, I am still a novice at that, so this method may not work if you are striping single rows.

I, also, do not cut my yarns between row changes, I just carry the yarn up the inside of the hat. Makes for less work in the finishing process. If you do this, remember not to pull too tight when you are bringing your yarn up for a color change or you will cause the hat to "crinkle".

top decrease rows: After you have completed 6", knit 1 row around.

next row: k5, k2tog,(repeat around) k1

next : knit

next : k4, k2tog,(repeat around) k1

next : knit

next : k3, k2tog, (repeat around) k1

next : k2, k2tog, (repeat) k1

next : k1, k2tog, (repeat) k1

next : k2tog

next: k2tog (you should have 7 loops remaining. if not, don't worry, just use what you have and close it up.)

Cut, leaving a long end for closing the top. Weave needle through the remaining loops and pull tight. I usually weave them through one more time for security, then weave your end in to make sure the top doesn't come undone and finish off.

Weave in the remaining and you are done!

NEW BORN/INFANT VERSION:

CO 55, work pattern for 4 inches,

decrease rows: k3, k2tog

next: k2, k2tog

next: k1, k2tog

next: k2tog

next: k2tog

Finish off.

To make larger versions, cast on in multiples of five. I do not have a scientific approach to knitting for babies. I sort of fly by the seat of my pants. If someone has a tried and true method...please...do tell. I haven't had a baby in my house in so long, I have forgotten how small they really are.

Here is my non-scientific method:

for infants, if using WW, cast on 55, knit until 4", then decrease.

for babies, cast on 65, knit until 4-1/2"(3-6mo), 5" (6-9mo) & 5-1/2" (9-12 mo). (Some babies have really big heads and may need more length to have the hat fit properly. Use your judgement.)

toddlers, cast on 75, Stay at 5-1/2" (but you be the judge here!)

kids & older, cast on 85, and depending on how big of a melon they have, knit till 6".

Hope you enjoy!! :)

Sunburst!! (A Sun Hat Pattern for Adults)

I have had quite a few requests for an adult sun hat. I hope this is what ya'll are looking for. :) It's only 26 rows and works up in an afternoon or less, depending on speedy you are.
Thanks to my model, Riley.

Cotton Sun Hat
by Elizabeth Mareno, 2011

Supplies needed:
1 ball 4 ply WW cotton kitchen yarn
I hook
Large eye needle for finishing
this awesome pattern!! :)

View from the front.
Finished brim with reverse single crochet.

Lots of breathing room for your head.

Pretty sunburst on top.

Row 1: ch2, 8sc in 2nd ch from hook, do not join. (8sc)
Row 2: 2sc in each sc around (16sc)
Row 3: ch1, sc in join sp, (ch3, sk next sc, sc in next sc) 7times, ch3, sk next sc, sl st to 1st sc of row. (8sc, 8-ch3 sp)
Row 4: ch1, sc in join, (3sc in ch3 sp, sc in next sc) 7 times, 3sc in ch3, join to 1st sc (32sc)
Row 5: ch1, sc in join, sc in 2sc, 2sc in next, (sc in 3sc, 2sc in next) 7times, sl st to 1st sc. (40sc)
Row 6: ch1, sc in join, sc in 3sc, 2sc in next, (sc in 4sc, 2sc in next) 7 times, sl st to join (48sc)
Row 7: ch1, sc in join, (ch3, sk next 2sc, sc in next) 15 times, ch3, sk last 2sc, sl st to 1st sc to join. (16sc, 16-ch3 sp)
Row 8: ch1, sc in join, (3sc in ch3 sp, sc in next sc) 15 times, 3sc in last ch3 sp, join to 1st sc. (64sc)
Row 9: ch1, sc in join, sc in 6sc, 2sc in next, (sc in 7sc, 2sc in next) 7 times, join to 1st sc. (72sc)
Row 10: ch1, sc in join, sc in 7sc, 2sc in next, (sc in 8sc, 2sc in next) 7 times, join. (80sc)
Row 11: ch1, sc in join, sc in each sc around. (80sc)
Row 12: ch1, sc in join, (ch3, sk 3sc, sc in next) 19 times, ch3, join. (20sc, 20-ch3sp)
Row 13: sl st in first ch3 sp, ch1, sc in ch3 sp, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 19 times, ch3, join to 1st sc. (20 ch3 sp)
Row 14-20: Repeat Row 13
Row 21: ch1, sc in join, (3sc in ch3 sp, sc in next sc) 19 times, 3sc in last ch3 sp. join. (80 sc)
Row 22: in Front Loops Only, ch1, sc in join, sc in next 8sc, 2sc in next, (sc in 9sc, 2sc in next) 7times, join. (88sc)
Row 23: in both loops, ch1, sc in join, sc in each sc around. (88sc)
Row 24: ch1, sc in join, sc in 9sc, 2sc in next, (sc in 10sc, 2sc in next) 7 times, join. (96sc)
Row 25: ch1, sc in join, sc in each sc. (96sc)
Row 26: ch1, reverse crochet in each around. Finish off.