Acorn Bag & Forest Friends Pattern

Acorn Bag & Forest Friends Toy Bag 

by Elizabeth Mareno

This pattern can be purchased on ETSY or my website. 

The acorn bag is adorned with fall leaves on the handle and the top opens to allow you to place all of the individual forest characters inside! Plus, there's extra space for extra "friends!"

The characters are as follows:

Mr. Bunnykins

Winston Owl

Henry Hopsalot

Steve the Squirrel

Gibby the Hedgehog

OR, you can have your little person name each of their own characters! This sort of imagination-based toy is perfect for little hands and minds. The bag makes this a useful busy toy for little ones to drag with them wherever they go. It also helps with their small motor skills and dexterity practicing taking the animals in and out of the bag, which all the littles seem to like to do! Last, but not least, if you make this out washable yarns, this is easy to throw in the washer to keep the toys clean and safe. While this pattern is geared toward the toddler crowd, I have seen kids as old as 7 & 8 have a good time playing with it. :)

You can use safety eyes, although the instructions in the pattern have the eyes and faces embroidered on. This pattern is definitely more geared towards an intermediate to advanced crocheter due to all of the small parts and assembly. However, it would make a great challenge for a slightly more advanced beginner. 

The only question that remains is, "What sorts of adventures will your characters go on??"

Make sure you check out my other playsets (by the way, these are all free):  Barnyard Gang Toy Bag, Fantasy Princess Castle, Iceberg Endangered Baby Animals, Rocket Ship with Astronauts & Aliens, and Tiny Pets Rescue House. 

© Bizzy Crochet and Design 2012

Slutty Brownies

Ok, I must admit, the name is silly, provocative and kinda wrong. LOL But Ohhhhhhh are they good! In reality, they are just a super easy triple layer brownie. BIG on chocolate!!!

Layer 1 is a 24 pack of preformed cookie dough rounds OR a full tube of cookie dough. I used the "Brownie Pan" from Pampered Chef, but I think you could adapt this to a regular pan easily enough.

If using the Brownie Pan, put 2 rounds per space. Otherwise layer the bottom of an 11x7 pan with the cookie dough and press down to cover the bottom. It doesn't have to be pushed hard.

Layer 2 is simply 12 Oreos. Now, in the Brownie Pan you only use one Oreo per space, so I would do the same thing in an 11x7 pan. Evenly place your Oreos for 12 brownies. You might want to lightly press them into the cookie dough to keep them from shifting during the next layer.

Layer 3 is a box of brownie mix...whatever flavor you like...mixed up according to package directions. We used the uber chunky with the Hershey's syrup etc. In the Brownie Pan just use 2 Tbl per space. In an 11x7 pan, carefully pour over or spoon over the top of your Oreo layer.

Here comes the tricky part. The Brownie Pan was 20 minutes in a 350 oven. But, I know that a brownie mix in a regular pan, all by itself, is around 25-27 minutes. You will want to feel this out. If you are doing the 11x7 pan, you may need to bake these according to the box directions for a fudgy or cake like brownie. (yes, I've made a few boxes of brownies in my life)

Good Luck!! And I hope you enjoy!!

Tiny Pets Rescue House!

Tiny Pets Rescue House Pattern

© 2012 Bizzy Crochet Designs

House bag


The gang

The caretaker

The puppy

The kitty

The macaw

The turtle

The mouse/muskrat

Pattern:

Difficulty Level: Advanced Beginner to Intermediate
Finished Size of bag: Approx 14”H x 7” W
Average finished size of characters: 2-3/4” to 7”
**Note** Do not join rows unless directed.
Gauge: 4”x4”=16scx16rows with H hook and RHSS Worsted

Materials Needed:  (All yarn amounts are approximate. You may need more or less depending on your gauge.)
HOUSE SUPPLIES: House Color- 6 oz Worsted Weight (used Bernat Super Value in Bright Yellow) Roof/Floor/Door Color- 6 oz worsted Weight (used Red Heart Super Saver in Black)
Window Colors- Small Amounts of light blue and brown
Foliage Color- Small Amount of green (used RHSS Spring Green)
Flower Colors- Small Amounts of brown and flower colors  
For small flowers use baby/sport weight
For large flowers use worsted weight
Fence color- Small amount of white worsted weight
H hook/F hook & large eye needle for assembly
Fiberfill
1 sheet stiff plastic canvas
1” Shank button in door color

ANIMAL SUPPLIES: **You can use whatever colors you want. I use only sport weight or very light weight worsted’s like Caron Simply Soft or Wool Ease. I use Red Heart Soft sparingly because it tends to work up thick. I am only going to put a list of colors used for the animals. You can either stick to my list, or choose colors from your stash to complete your animals.  You will not need more than 2 oz of each color for each character. Just be aware that if you use a worsted yarn like Red Heart Super Saver, you will make a larger character. If you are committed to the larger size, you may want to go all the way and bump your hook size up from an F hook to a G hook for hand comfort. Just remember, your character may not fit comfortably in the house.
F hook & large eye needle for assembly
Fiberfill -
Fuzzy brown for muskrat/mouse (used Wool Ease) -
Two-tones of brown for dog (Used Caron SS) -
Single color for cat (used Wool Ease) -
2 colors for macaw body & head/wings, black for mouth & feet (used Caron SS and Wool Ease) -Skin color, uniform color and shoe color for caretaker (used Caron SS and Wool Ease) -
tan and green for turtle, white for eyes (used Caron SS tan & white and RH Soft guacamole/avocado?) -
small amts of black, white, blue, red, etc for eyes, noses and mouths.

HOUSE PATTERN:
Start with Black & H hook
Row 1- ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch. (6) do not join.
Row 2- 2sc in each sc (12)
Row 3- (1sc, 2sc in next) around. (18)
Row 4- (1sc in 2, 2sc in next) around (24)
Row 5- (1sc in 3, 2sc in next) around (30)
Row 6-10- continue increasing 1 sc per stitch series until you have (1sc in 8sc, 2sc in next). (60)
Row 11- BLO (back loops only) sc in each sc (60)
*Take a minute to cut a piece of plastic canvas to the size of your bottom circle.
Row 12- in Both Loops, sc in each (60)
Cut Black, Attach Yellow and continue
Row 13- sc
Row 14- sc in 20sc, chg to black, sc in 10sc, chg to yellow, sc in 30sc. (60)
Row 15-20- Repeat row 14 (60)
*After row 20- cut yellow, change to black
Row 21-BLO- (sc in 8, sc dec) around (54)
Row 22- in Both Loops(sc in 7, sc dec) around (48)
Row 23-28- continue decreasing 1sc per stitch series until you have (sc in 1, sc dec) (12)
**Begin to stuff firmly at about row 25, placing the piece of plastic canvas you previously cut on the bottom before filling- Make sure your open loops are to the outside or right side.
Row 29- (sc dec) around. (6) Finish off leaving a long end.
Using needle sew top closed and weave ends.

BODY OF HOUSE:
With yellow & H hook & working in open loops from row 20 of bottom
Row 1- with Right Side (RS) facing you, attach with house color to the left side of the “door” (black space on bottom piece), sc in each loop to the opposite side of the “door”. (50sc)
Row 2-7- Ch1, turn, sc in each sc (50)
Row 8- Ch1, turn,  2sc in first and last sc, sc in rest of sc as usual (52)
Row 9-10- Repeat row 8- finishing with (56sc) on row 10. Ch4, join with 1st sc of row 10.
Row 11- Ch1, turn, sc in all ch’s and sc’s around. (60), join.
Row 12-20- ch1, turn, sc in each sc around, join. (60)
At the end of row 20, cut, weave end.

ROOF:
With black & H hook
Row 1- ch2, 5sc in 2nd ch from hook (5)
Row 2- sc in each sc
Row 3- 2sc in each sc (10)
Row 4- sc in each sc
Row 5- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next) repeat around (15)
Row 6- sc in each sc
Row 7- (sc in 2sc, 2sc in next) rpt around (20)
Row 8- sc in each sc
Row 9- 2sc in each sc (40)
Row 10-14- sc in each sc
Row 15- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next) rpt around (60)
Row 16-23- sc in each sc
Row 24-31- Repeat rows 21-28 of bottom. Start stuffing @ Row 28
Do not insert any plastic into the roof.

Roof edging: 
Row 1- With bottom of body facing you, attach the roof to the body through both loops of sc on last row of body and open loops on roof, sc around (60) join.
Row 2- ch1, do not turn, sc in each sc, join.
Row 3- ch3, 4dc in join sp, (sk 1sc, sc in next, sk 1sc, 5dc in next) repeat around. Join.

DOOR:
With black , H hook: Make 2
Row 1- ch11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch (10)
Row 2-7- ch1, turn, sc
Row 8- sc dec, sc in 6sc, sc dec (8)
Row 9- sc dec, sc in 4sc, sc dec (6)
Row 10- sc dec, sc in 2sc, sc dec (4)
**Before sewing pieces together, cut a piece of plastic canvas to fit between. Hold wrong sides of door pieces together and sc around the edges making sure to go through all thicknesses and putting 3sc in corners. Don’t forget to slide your piece of plastic canvas between the pieces before you get too far.
Door Knob- Keep RS of door facing you!
Either slip stitch up the side to where you want your door knob to be placed, or cut your yarn from putting your door together and reattach at the side. Either way, ch4, sl st in next sc, turn work, 6sc in ch4 space, sl st to join and cut. Your door knob is made. Weave all your ends in to make your work neat.  

Door Decorations: You can decorate the door if you want or not… With light gray or blue & F hook Row 1- ch4, 12dc in 1st ch (12dc)
Row 2- change to brown, 2sc in each dc (24sc)
Cut yarn and sew on. Sew door to opening, sew button at door knob.

FLOWERS, LEAVES, FENCE POSTS & WINDOW:
Leaves: with H hook & green worsted
Ch8, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, 3 sl st in last ch, (now working on opposite side of beg ch) sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch.
Cut leaving a long end for sewing.

Stems: with H hook & green worsted ch 16 (or any desired length), sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to the end.
Cut, leave a long end.

Flowers: follow materials list for yarn/hooks for different flower sizes:
Small/Large Row 1- ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (6) do not join, switch to flower color
Row 2- join flower color to center color with sl st in 1st sc. Sl st to next sc in the row to keep moving to the next petal. (ch3, 2dc, ch3, sl st in sm sp) in each sc around,. (6 petals made)
Cut, leaving a long end to sew.

Fence Posts: with H hook & white worsted
ch 16, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch. (15) Cut and leave a long end for sewing on. *I only made 2. Then I slip stitched a “fence” between the posts on the body of the house.

Window: with H hook & light blue and brown
Row 1- ch7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each (6)
Row 2-7- ch1, turn, sc in each.
After row 7, cut blue and attach brown.
 Edge window with brown, putting a sc in each row end & sc and 3sc in each corner. I stitched a “window pane” look with brown.
When you cut your yarn, leave a very long end for attaching to the house.

HANDLE:
with house color and H hook
Row 1- ch6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each (5)
Row 2-30- ch1, turn, sc in each
When you hit the end of row 30, turn the strap without cutting and work a sc into each row end. When you get to the opposite end of the strap, cut, leave a long end.
Reattach on the other side and repeat. This makes your strap sturdier, prettier and less likely to stretch out. 
Sew handle to whichever side you put the button for your door. 

CHARACTER PATTERNS:
Puppy: with F hook & 2 tones of brown
Body: Row 1- ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)
Row 2- 2sc in each sc (12)
Row 3- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next) repeat around (18)
Row 4- (sc in 2sc, 2sc in next) repeat around (24)
Row 5-7- sc in each sc
Row 8- (sc in 2sc, sc dec) repeat around (18)
Row 9- sc *Start Stuffing
Row 10- (sc in 1sc, dec) repeat around (12)
Row 11- (sc dec) around (6)
Row 12- sc in each (6). Finish off.

Head: Rows 1-3- Repeat as for body
Row 4-5- sc in each sc (18)
Row 6- (sc in 1sc, sc dec) repeat around (12)
Row 7- sc in each sc
*Start Stuffing
Row 8- (sc in 1sc, sc dec) repeat around (8) Cut, leave a long end for sewing and sew to body.

Muzzle: Row 1- ch2, 8sc in 2nd ch from hook (8)
Row 2- sc in each. Finish off.  Embroider a black nose, sew to face.

Ears: make 2
Row 1- ch2, 7sc in 2nd ch from hook (7)
Row 2-5- sc in each sc
Row 6- (sc in 1sc, sc dec) around, sc in last (5) cut, sew on to sides of head
Embroider eyes above muzzle and a line on the muzzle for the mouth.

Tail: ch6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next, hdc in last 3 ch. Cut and sew onto butt.

Back legs: make 2
Row 1- ch3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc in next ch,(working on opposite side of original ch) 2sc in first ch. (6sc)join
Row 2- ch1, 2sc in first 2sc, sc in next, 2sc in next 2sc, sc in next, join. Don’t cut.
Right Foot: ch4, 4sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in last 2 ch’s and to hind leg. Sew to body.
Left Foot: after join, sl st to next sc, repeat as for right foot.

Front legs: make 2 ch6, 4sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in remain. Cut and sew to front.

Kitty: with F hook & body color
Repeat body and head of puppy
Face:
Cheeks: w/ top of head facing you, sl st around posts from row 5, 3sc around post, sl st around next post, 3sc around next post. Finish, tuck ends.
Embroider green eyes and a pink nose/mouth

Whiskers: tie a knot, pull the yarn through under the nose and tie another knot, cut, fray ends. Do this for as many whiskers as you want.

Ears:
Left ear- front facing away, join with sl st around post of row 2 on side of head. Ch4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in the last.  sl st to next post down.
Right ear- front facing you, repeat on opposite side of the head.

Hind Legs: make 2
Row 1- ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)
Row 2- 2sc in each sc (12)
Row 3- sc in each sc, join, finish off leaving a long end.
Stuff lightly while sewing to lower half of body on opposite sides.

Foot: make 2
Row 1- ch2, 5sc in 2nd ch from hook (5)
Row 2-4- sc in each sc. Cut, flatten, sew to front of hind legs. One on each side.

Tail: ch15, sl st in 2nd ch & rem ch’s. leave long end for sewing, sew to butt.

Front Legs: make 2 ch10, 4sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st  in rem ch’s. Attach to upper body

Muskrat/Mouse: with F hook & mouse color
Row 1- ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)
Row 2- 2sc in each sc (12)
Row 3- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next) around (18)
Row 4-8- sc in each sc
*Now, turn inside out. The backside will be the RS because the ‘fuzz’ is better.
Row 9- (sc in 1sc, sc dec) around (12)
Row 10- sc in each
Row 11- (sc in 1sc, sc dec) around (8)
Row 12- (sc in 2sc, 2sc in 2sc) repeat (12)start stuffing
Row 13- (sc in 2sc, sc dec twice) repeat (8)
Row 14- (sc dec) four times (4)
Row 15- sc dec twice (2).
Cut, sew closed Embroider eyes and small nose.
For ears- put 3sc around the posts behind the “puffs”
Legs- Front & back- sl st around a sc post. Remember you will need 4 legs, so position yourself accordingly. Ch4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2, sl st over to “other leg” space, repeat.
Tail- attach to post on butt, ch15, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each.

Macaw: w/2 colors (body & head/wings)& F hook
Body: Row 1- ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch (6)
Row 2- 2sc in each (12)
Row 3- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next) around (18)
Row 4- (sc in 2sc, 2sc in next) around (24)
 Row 5-7- sc
Row 8- (sc in 2sc, sc dec) around (18)
Row 9- sc
Row 10- (sc in 1sc, sc dec) around (12) Stuff
Row 11- sc
Row 12- sc dec around (6) Close off.

Head: Repeat row 1-3 for body
Row 4- sc in each (18)
Row 5- sc dec, sc in next, sc dec, sc in next, sc dec, sc in remaining sc (15)
Row 6- sc dec three times, sc in remaining (12)
Row 7- sc around. Cut, leaving a long end for sewing and stuff. Sew to round 11 of body.

Beak: Top: w/black and F hook
Row 1- ch5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next.
Row 2- ch1, turn, sc in 3 stitches, sl st in next, (working in the opposite side of beg ch) sl st in same sp, sc in next 3.
Cut. Sew flat side to face, curving it slightly.
**Beak Tips
1. I sewed the edge to the face, then sewed from one corner to the next to kind of pinch it together.
 2. Then I ran a piece down the edge of the beak to the tip and sewed the tip so that it was pointy.
 3. Then I ran it back up the other side and pulled lightly to make the beak curve a little. 

Beak Bottom: Attach around post of sc right below top w/sl st, ch2, dc around post, ch2, sl st around post. Cut off.

Tail: w/head color & F hook
The bird’s head should be facing down and away from you.
Attach w/ sl st to posts of row 3, centrally located, at the back of the bird. (Find the 5 middle posts and mark the last w/marker & count back to the first and attach there).  
1st Feather: ch9, sl st  in 2nd ch from hook and each, sl st ar next post (8)
2nd Feather: ch11, repeat 1st feather. (10)
3rd Feather: ch13, repeat 1st feather (12)
4th Feather: ch11, repeat 1st feather (10)
5th Feather: ch9, repeat 1st feather except do not sl s tar next post.(8) Cut off/ weave ends.
When weaving ends in, I ran a stitch across the base of the feathers to bring them together and help straighten them out a bit.

Back: w/head color & F hook
Row 1- ch6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each (5)
Row 2-4- ch1, turn, sc
Row 5- ch1, turn, sc dec, sc in next, sc dec (3)
Row 6- ch1, turn, sc Cut and attach to back matching up Row 1 to the tail base.

Wings: w/head color & F hook
Row 1- ch5, 3sc in 2nd ch, sc in 2ch, 3 sc in last ch,(working on the opposite side of beg ch) sc in 2ch, (10sc) join.
Row 2- ch2, hdc in sm sp, 3 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next, sc in 3 stitches, 3sc in next, sc in 3 stitches, join to ch2 (16)
Row 3- ch2, 2hdc in next 2, 3hdc in next, 2hdc in next 2, hdc in next, sc in 3 stitches, 2sc in next, 3 sc in next, 2sc in next, sc in 3 stitches, join. (26)
Row 4- Right Wing- (**Always sl st in next st)- (ch3, turn, sl st in sm sp, **) 5 times. (ch5, sl st in 3rd ch from hook and next 2, **) 3 times, sl st to next st, cut, leave long end.
Left Wing- (**Always sl st in next st)-sl st in 11 hdc, start feathers in next hdc. Repeat as for right wing.

Feet: w/black & F hook: make 2
Toe 1- ch6, sl st in 2nd & 3rd chs (do not cut)
Toe 2- ch3, sl st in 2nd & 3rd chs & orig ch Toe 3- repeat toe 2.
Sl st in rem ch’s. Cut and sew so that the feet “peek” out from under the body.

Turtle: w/tan, green & F hook
Shell: w/green
Row 1- ch2, 6sc (6)
Row 2- 2sc in each (12)
Row 3- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next) around (18)
Row 4- (sc in 2sc, 2sc in next) around (24)
Row 5- (sc in 3sc, 2sc in next) around (30)
Row 6-7- sc in each Row 8-9- sl st 4sc, sc in remaining.  Cut, leave a long end for sewing.

Tummy: w/tan Row 1- ch4, sc in 2nd ch and each (3)
Row 2- ch1, turn, 2sc in first, sc in next, 2sc in last (5)
Row 3- repeat row 2 (7)
Row 4- repeat row 2 (9)
Row 5-7- ch1, turn, sc Row 8- ch1, turn, sc dec, sc in to last 2, sc dec (7)
Row 9- repeat row 8 (5)
Row 10- repeat row 8 (3) don’t cut color.
Edge tummy with a sc in each row end and each sc around.

Meet wrong sides of tummy and shell together, sew pieces together from top to bottom w/green through posts on last row of shell and through sc’s on edging of tummy.

Head: w/tan
Row 1- ch2, 6sc (6)
Row 2- 2sc in each (12)
Row 3- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next) around (18)
Row 4-6- sc
Row 7- (sc in 1sc, sc dec) around (12)
Row 8- sc Sew to body at “arch” in shell.

Legs: w/tan, make 4
Row 1- ch2, 6sc (6)
Row 2- (sc in 1sc, 2sc) (9)
Row 3- BLO, sc in each Row 4- sc Lightly stuff. Sew on to bottom

Eyes: w/white, make 2
Row 1- ch2, 6sc. (6) Cut, sew eyes together at the middle. Embroider pupils with black

Nose: w/tan Row 1-2- repeat rows 1 & 2 of legs Row 3- sc in each Cut, light stuff, sew to face. Attach eyes. Embroider smile and nostrils if you wish.


Caretaker:  Head/Body: w/ skin color, shoe color, clothes color and F hook
R1- ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (6) do not join
R2- 2sc in each sc around (12)
R3- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next) (18)
R4-8- sc in each (18)
R9- sc dec around (9) Stuff
R10- (sc in 1sc, dec) around (6)
R11- sc in each sc (6)
R12- 2sc in each sc (12) , Change to shirt color
R13- (sc in1sc, 2sc in next ) around (18)
R14-21- sc in each sc (18)
R22- (sc in 1sc, dec) around (12) Stuff
R23- (dec) around (6) sl st tojoin, finish off, weave ends tightening up bottom.

With Shoe color, skin color & Pants Color:
Legs (make 2, don't stuff) Start with shoe color
R1- ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook, do not join (6)
R2- 2sc in each sc (12)
R3- sc in 4sc, sc dec twice, sc in 4sc (10)
R4- sc in 4sc, sc dec once, sc in 4sc (9) Change to skin color R5-9- sc in each. At the end of row 9, change to pants color R10-13- sc in each
Finish off. Flatten edge and sew on to bottom part of body, evenly spaced

With Skin Color & Shirt Color: Arms (make 2, don't stuff) start with skin color
R1- ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook, do not join (6)
R2-6- sc in each (6) Change to shirt color
R7-10- sc in each sc.
Finish off, sew to body @ row 12
Sl st belt onto middle of body.
Embroider hair, eyes & mouth.










 

Deep Dish Cherry Pie with Almond Crumble

This pie is actually an amalgamation of a couple different recipes. I knew I wanted a cherry crumble, kind of like a dutch apple only better. So I went searching for recipes. Cooking is kind of like putting an outfit together. You just keep ripping stuff out of your closet till you find a combination that works. Pie Crust:
I used the single pie crust recipe from my Mom's Better Homes and Gardens cookbook circa 1968, but here is a link to a single pie crust in case you don't happen to own a cookbook with a pie crust recipe in it.
*Tips for a flaky crust
DO NOT OVERWORK the crust!

Filling:
This may seem like cheating...I assure you it is, if you are a purist...If you are like me, you call it an ingenious lifesaver....
2 cans Cherry Pie Filling. :)
However, if you feel extremely creative and want to make your own pie filling, here is the link for a sour cherry pie. (actually the recipe I nabbed the crumble top from)

Almond Crumble Topping:
I had to make adjustments to this recipe as I did not have all of the cool stuff available to me that she did. *Link to original*
1 cup all purpose flour (original called for 1/2 oat flour, 1/2 all purpose)
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon (original called for 1/4, but we like cinnamon)
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 small pkg slivered almonds, chopped (original called for 3/4 cup unsalted whole almonds, coarsely ground in a food processor or chopped medium fine by hand.....we didn't have that)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Ok. Once I worked up my pie crust, I transferred it into a deep dish pie pan. I followed the directions for blind baking (which means stabbing the crust with a fork so it doesn't puff up and cooking it for about 12 minutes @ 375. you want your pie crust browned and "firm"). You do this so you don't end up with "soggy bottoms", as Julia Child would say. Once my pie crust was cooled, I poured my 2 cans of cherry filling in and covered with the crumble generously. I cooked the pie @ 375 for another 20-30 minutes or until the crumble was browned and the cherries were bubbly.

Let it cool and serve with whipped cream or ice cream.

Current WIP

Working on a football afghan as a gift for my kids' algebra tutor. This good man has met with my kids every week for more than 6 months without ever asking for a thing from us. Just want to bless him back. His favorite team is Alabama Crimson Tide, hence the color choice.

Faeries- Sampler Baby Afghan Pattern

Faeries Sampler Baby Afghan Pattern

by Elizabeth Mareno

This pattern was my very first sampler afghan pattern created in 2012. It has been my most popular pattern to date with more than 150,000 downloads worldwide. It has become a staple baby blanket pattern for many people because it is so versatile. While it is created with bright, faerie colors in this sample, it lends itself well to any color combination you can think of, and the different stitches will keep you interested throughout. 

If you don't want to copy and paste the pattern or deal with the advertising,
it is available on  ETSY  or my website. 

Tutorial videos are also available on YouTube.

Materials: 

Yarn- 1 Skein Each if purchasing –if using scraps: about 6-8oz for each color
Color A: White/Pink/Green/Blue/Yellow Variegated (Used Red Heart Super Saver “Sherbet”)
Color B: Yellow (Used Caron Simply Soft Brites “Lemonade”)
Color C: White W/Sparkle (Used Bernat “Holiday” Yarn –White w/silver)
Color D: Dark Pink (Used Red Heart Super Saver “Shocking Pink”)
Color E: Lime Green (Used Caron Simply Soft Brites “Limelight”)
Color F: Blue/Purple (Used Caron Simply Soft Brites “Blueberry”)
Color G: Hot Pink (Used Caron Simply Soft Brites “Watermelon”)
H hook
Yarn needle for weaving ends

Special Notes: 

Popcorn Stitch: 5dc into indicated sp, remove hook from loop, insert into the top of the first dc and the dropped loop, pull through all three loops. 
Bobble Stitch: (yo, insert into sp, yo, pull back through) repeat 2 times, yo, pull through 7 loops on hook.

Pattern Terminology: ch- chain / sc- single crochet / sc dec (or dec)- single crochet decrease / sl st- slip st / hdc- half double crochet / dc- double crochet / FLO- front loop only / BLO- back loop only / rpt- repeat / sm sp- same space / yo- yarn over / fpdc- front post double crochet / bpdc- back post double crochet / cts- counts / trc- treble crochet /

Finished Size: Roughly 36”x36”
Gauge: Rows 1-3 = 4”x4”

Pattern:

Rnd 1: with color A, ch4, join to make a ring, ch3 (does not count as dc), 20dc in ring. Join with sl st in 1 st dc (20dc). 

Rnd 2: ch3 (counts as dc from here on), (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same sp as join, dc in 4dc, [(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next dc, dc in next 4dc] 3x, join with sl st in top of ch3. (32dc, 4 ch2 sp). 

Rnd 3: sl st in next dc and ch2 sp, ch3 (dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2 sp, dc in 8dc, [(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2 sp, dc in next 8dc] 3x, join with sl st in top of ch3. Cut color A (48dc, 4 ch2sp).

Rnd 4: with color B, join with sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(2sc, ch2, 2sc) in ch2sp, {ch1, sk 1dc, sc in next dc} 6 times] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. (40sc, 24 ch1sp).

Rnd 5: sl st in sc and ch2sp, ch1, [(2sc, ch2, 2sc) in ch2sp, ch1, sk 1sc, sc in next sc and ch1sp, {ch1, sk sc, sc in next ch1sp} 5 times, ch1, sk sc, sc in next sc, ch1, sk last sc] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. Cut color B (48sc, 32 ch1sp).

Rnd 6: with color C, join with sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch3, (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same sp as join, (ch1, sk 2sc, dc in next ch1sp) twice, (ch1, sk 1sc, dc in next ch1sp) 6 times, ch1, sk 2sc, [(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next ch2sp, {ch1, sk 2sc, dc in next ch1sp} twice, {ch1, sk 1sc, dc in next ch1sp} 6 times, ch1, sk 2sc] 3x, join with sl st in top of ch3. Cut color C (48dc, 36 ch1sp).

Rnd 7: with color D, join with sl st to any ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2sp, sc in each dc and ch1sp to corner] 4x, join with sl st to 1st sc. Cut color D (92sc).

Rnd 8: with color E, join with a sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch3, (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same sp as join, {sk2sc, (dc, ch1, dc) in next sc} 7 times, sk 2sc, [(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2sp, {sk2sc, (dc, ch1, dc) in next sc} 7 times, sk 2sc] 3x, join with sl st in top of ch3 (72dc).

Rnd 9: ch3, dc in next dc, [*(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner, dc in first 2dc, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch1sp 7x,* dc in last 2dc] 3x, repeat * to * once, Join with sl st in top of ch3. Cut color E (88dc).

Rnd 10: with color C, join with sl st to any ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2sp, sc in each dc and ch1sp to corner] 4x, join with sl st to 1st sc. Cut color C (124sc). 

Rows 1-10

Rnd 11: with color B, join with sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2sp, {ch2, sk 1sc, sc in next sc} 15 times, ch2, sk 1sc] 4x, join with a sl st to 1st sc. (68sc, 68ch2sp).

Rnd 12: sl st in ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2sp, {ch2, sk sc, sc in ch2sp} 16 times, ch2, sk next sc] 4x, join with a sl st to 1st sc. Cut color B (72sc).

Rnd 13: with color C, join with sl st to any corner ch2sp, [(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2sp, 2sc in each ch2 to next corner] 4x, join with sl st to 1st sc. Cut color C (144sc).

Rnd 14: with color G, join with sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2sp, 2sc in next sc, sc in 16sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in 17sc, 2sc in next sc] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc (164sc).

15: sl st in corner, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, {sk 2sc, 5dc in next sc, sk 2sc, sc in next sc} 6 times, sk 2sc, 5dc in next sc, sk 2sc] 4x, join with a sl st to 1st sc (28 fans, 32sc).

Rnd 16: ch3, [(dc, ch2, dc) in corner ch2sp, {dc in next sc, ch2, sk 2dc, sc in next dc, ch2, sk 2dc} repeat to corner, dc in last sc] 4x, join with sl st in top of ch3 (60 ch2sp including corners). 

Rnd 17: ch1, sc in joining st, sc in next dc, [(2sc, ch2, 2sc) in corner, {sc in each dc, 2sc in each ch2sp, sc in each sc) across to corner*, repeat from * to * 3 times, join with a sl st to 1st sc. Cut Color G (196sc). 

Rnd 18: with color F, join with sl st in any corner ch2sp, ch2, (hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in same sp, [*sk sc, hdc in next sc and in each sc to next corner*, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner] 3x, repeat * to * once, join with sl st to 1st hdc (208hdc). 

Rnd 19: sl st in hdc and ch2sp, (ch2, hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner ch2sp, [*hdc in each hdc*, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner] 3x, repeat from * to * once, join with sl st to top of ch2. Cut color F (224hdc). 

Rnd 20: with color A, join with sl st in any corner ch2sp, ch3, (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same sp, [*ch1, sk 2hdc, dc in 2hdc, {ch1, sk 1hdc, dc in 2hdc} 17 times, ch1, sk last hdc*, (2dc, ch2, 2dc)] 3 times, repeat * to * once more, join with sl st to top of ch3. Cut color A (160dc). 

Rows 11-20

Rnd 21: with color C, join with sl st in any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(2sc, ch2, 2sc) in same sp, sc in each dc and ch1sp to next corner] 4x, join with sl st to 1st sc. Cut color C (252sc). 

Rnd 22: with color E, join with sl st in any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in same sp, sk sc, sc in next sc and each sc to next corner] 4x, join with sl st to 1st sc. Cut color E (256sc). 

Rnd 23: with color B, join with sl st in any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in same sp, {sc in 4sc, popcorn} 12 times, sc in last 4sc] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. Cut color B (48 popcorn, 212sc). 

Rnd 24: with color E, join with a sl st in any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in same sp, sc in each sc and each popcorn to next corner] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. Cut color E (272sc) 

Rnd 25: with color D, join with a sl st in any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in same sp, {ch1, sk sc, sc in next sc} 34 times] 4x, join with sl st to 1st sc. (144sc, 140 ch1sp). 

Rnd 26: sl st to corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, {ch1, sk sc, sc in ch1} 35 times, ch1, sk 2sc], join with sl st to 1st sc. Cut color D (144sc, 140 ch1sp) 

Rnd 27: with color C, join with sl st to any ch2sp, ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), dc in same sp, [*{ch1, sk sc, dc in next ch1sp} 35 times, ch1, sk sc*, (dc, ch2, dc) in next corner ch2sp] 3x, repeat from * to * once, join with sl st in 3rd ch of ch5. Cut color C (148dc).

 Rnd 28: with color F, join with sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(2sc, ch2, 2sc) in corner ch2sp, sc in each dc and ch1sp to next corner] 4x, join with sl st to 1st sc. (308sc). 

Rnd 29: sl st to corner ch2sp, ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), dc in same sp, [*{dc in next sc, ch1, sk sc, Bobble Stitch in next sc, ch2, sk sc} repeat across to next corner, dc in last sc*, (dc, ch2, dc) in corner sp] 3x, repeat * to * once, join to 3rd ch ofch5. (76 bobbles, 88dc) 

Rnd 30: ch1, sl st to corner ch2, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner sp, sc in each dc, ch1sp and bobble to the next corner] 4x, join with sl st to 1st sc. Cut color F (324 sc). 

Rows 21-30

Rnd 31: with color E, join with sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch6 (counts as dc and ch3), dc in same sp, [*dc in each sc to next corner*, (dc, ch2 dc)] 3x, repeat * to * once, join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch6. Cut color E (332dc). 

Rnd 32: with color G, join with sl st to any corner ch3sp, ch3, (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same sp, [*{dc in next dc, fptrc around post of next dc in Rnd 31} 41 times, dc in next dc*, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner] 3x, repeat * to * once, join with sl st to top of ch3. Cut color G (184dc, 164fptrc). 

Rnd 33: with color C, join with sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, sc in next dc, (ch1, sk 1st, sc in next st), to next corner] 4x, join with a sl st to 1st sc. Cut color C (172 ch1sp). 

Rnd 34: with color B, join with sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch3, (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same sp, [*dc in next 2sc, fptrc around dc from Rnd 32, {dc in next sc, fptrc around next fptrc in Rnd 32} 41 times, dc in next dc, fpdtr around dc from Rnd 32, dc in next 2dc*, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2sp] 3x, repeat * to* once, join with sl st in top of ch3. Cut color B (200dc, 172fptrc).

Rnd 35: with color C, join with sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, sc in 2dc, {ch1, sk next st, sc in next dc} 45 times, sc in 2dc] 4x, join with sl st in first sc. Cut color C (180 ch1sp, 200sc). 

Rnd 36: with color A, join with sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch6 (counts as dc and ch3), dc in same sp, [*ch1, sk sc, dc in next sc, {ch1, sk sc, dc in ch1sp} 45 times, ch1, sk sc, dc in next sc, ch1*, (dc, ch3, dc) in next corner ch2sp] 3x, repeat * to * once, join with sl st in 3rd ch of ch6. Cut color A (196dc). 

Rnd 37: with color C, join with sl st to any corner ch3sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, {ch1, sk dc, sc in ch1sp} across] 4x, join with sl st to 1st sc. Cut color C (200sc). 

Rnd 38: with color E, join with sl st in any corner ch2sp, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, sc in each sc and ch1sp across] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. (404sc) 

Rnd 39: sl st in corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, {sk 2sc, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next sc, sk 2sc, sc in next sc} to last 6sc, sk 2sc, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next sc, sk 2 sc] 4x, join with sl st in 1 st sc. (68 fans). 

Rnd 40: sl st in corner ch2sp, ch3, (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same corner sp, [*{dc in next sc, ch1, sk 2dc, 3sc in ch2sp, ch1, sk 2dc} 17x, dc in last sc*, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2sp] 3x, repeat * to * once, join with sl st in top of ch3. (88dc) 

Rnd 41: ch1, sc in same st as join and next dc, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, sc in next 3dc, sc in each ch1, dc and sc to next corner] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. Cut color E (436sc).

Rows 31-41 

Rnd 42: with color D, join with sl st in any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, (ch1, sk 1sc, sc in next) to corner, ch1, sk last sc] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. Cut color D (224sc, 220ch1sp). 

Rnd 43: with color C, join with sl st to corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, sc in each sc and ch1sp to next corner] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. Cut color C (452sc). 

Rnd 44: with color F, join with sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, {sc in 4sc, popcorn} 22 times, sc in 3sc] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. Cut color F (88 popcorn). 

Rnd 45: with color C, join with sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch 1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, sc in each sc and popcorn to next corner] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. Cut color C (468sc).

Rnd 46: with color D, repeat Rnd 42. Cut color D (236sc). 

Rnd 47: with color B, repeat Rnd 43. Cut Color B (484sc). 

Rnd 48: with color A, sl st to any corner ch2sp, ch6 (counts as dc and ch3), dc in same sp, [*{sk 1sc, 2dc in next sc} repeat to corner, sk 1sc*, (dc, ch3, dc) in next corner ch2sp] 3x, repeat * to * once, join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch6. Cut color A (488dc).

Rnd 49: with color G, join in any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch3sp, sc in each sc to next corner] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. (496sc)

Rnd 50: sl st in corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, {ch2, sk 2sc, bobble, ch3, sk 2sc, sc in next sc} 20 times, sk 2sc, bobble in next sc, ch3, sk1 sc] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. (84 bobbles).

Rnd 51: sl st in corner, ch6 (counts as dc and ch3), dc in same ch2sp, [*dc in 1sc, {ch2, scin bobble, ch2, dc in sc} across to next corner, (dc, ch3, dc) in corner ch2sp] 3x, repeat * to * once, join with sl st in 3rd ch of ch6. (172 ch2sp)

Rnd 52: sl st in corner, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch3sp, sc in each dc and each sc, 2sc in each ch2sp] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. Cut color G (524sc)

Rnd 53: with color C, join with sl st in any corner ch2sp, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2sp, {ch1, sk 1sc, sc in next sc} across, ch1, sk1] 4x, join with sl st in 1st sc. (260 ch1sp, 272sc).

Rnd 54: sl st in corner, ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2sp, {ch3, sk sc, sc in ch1sp} across, ch3, sk1] 4x,  join with sl st in 1st sc. Cut color C (260 ch3sp, 276sc).

Rows 42-54

Finish off and Enjoy!

© Bizzy Crochet and Design 2012

Hector The Tiny Puppy pattern

Hector The Tiny Puppy
By Elizabeth Mareno 2012

Supplies:
Small amts each of:
Tan WW yarn (used Caron SS 'Bone')
Darker brown ww for contrast color (used 'I love this yarn' from Hobby Lobby)
Black for eyes and mouth
F hook
Lg eye needle for assembly & embroidery
Fiberfill stuffing

Finished size: 3-1/4" tall

Body:
R1- ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook, do not join (6)
R2- 2sc in each sc around (12)
R3- (sc in 1sc, 2sc in next sc) around, (18)
R4- (sc in 2sc, 2sc in next sc) around (24)
R5-R7- sc in each sc (24)
R8- (sc in 2sc, sc dec) around (18)
R9- sc in each sc
R10- (sc in 1sc, sc dec) around (12)STUFF
R11- (sc dec) around (6)
R12- sc in each.
Finish off. Tuck in ends

Head:
R1-R3- Repeat as for body
R4-R5- sc in each (18)
R6- (sc in 1sc, sc dec) around (12)
R7- sc in each. STUFF
R8- (sc in 1sc, sc dec) around (8)
Finish off. Leave a long end for attaching the head. Sew the head centered on the body.

Muzzle: w/contrasting color
R1- ch2, 8sc in 2nd ch from hook (8)
R2- sc in each
Finish off. Leave long end for attaching. Do not stuff.
**embroider nose on with black before attaching to the front of the face**
Sew muzzle to front of face.

Ears: w/contrasting color Make 2
R1- ch2, 7sc in 2nd ch from hook (7)
R2-5- sc in each sc
R6- (sc in 1sc, sc dec) twice, sc in last sc (5)
Finish off, leaving long end. Flatten end and sew one to each side of the head.

Tail: w/contrasting color
Ch6, sc in 2nd ch and next ch, hdc in last 3 ch's.
Finish off and sew to butt with 'curve' facing up.

Back Legs: w/contrasting color
RIGHT:
R1- ch3, sc in 2nd ch, 3rd in next ch, 2sc in same sp as 1st sc. (6)
R2- 2sc in 2sc, sc in 1, 2sc in 2sc, sc in last sc, join. (10) do not cut.
Foot: ch4, 4sc in 2nd ch, sl st in last 2 ch, sl st to leg in sm sp as chain 4 and finish off.
Sew to right side of body

LEFT: repeat as for right side
After 'join', sl st in 5, repeat foot.
Sew to left side of body

Front legs, make 2: ch 6, 4sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in remaining ch's.
Finish off and sew to front of body.

Happy Crocheting!

How To Whipstitch Afghan Squares

I have had a request from a beginner to explain "how to" put afghan squares together. I thought this might be a fun challenge to see if I can explain it and I'm always up for using my camera. :)

This is my style for whipstitching just about every afghan square together, no matter what blanket I am making. If I am making a blanket with very specific colors, I make sure that the yarn I am using for assembly matches my square edging so that my assembly does not stick out like a sore thumb. However, if I am making a scrap afghan, I will just use the yarn from the square that I am currently working on to attach to the next square.

This first picture shows the length of yarn I typically leave on the square (of this size) so that I can attach it to another scrap square.
Then I will weave my yarn through the back loops of the next two stitches so that I can get over to the "corner". It makes it look so much neater.

This picture shows that I am in the corner and ready to start whipstitching in the "next" stitch, which I will show you in the next set of pictures.

Here the squares are facing you with their "right sides".
Put the "right sides" of your squares together.
This would be the "next stitch" from the corner as shown in the previous pictures. Insert needle from back to front of work.
Go through all four loops, matching up stitch for stitch on both squares.
Here you see the yarn through all four of the first set of loops.Now entering from the same direction as the first set of stitches, do it again. Go through all four loops. You are essentially sewing a "circle" through your stitches.
See how the yarn makes a "circle" or "loop" over the stitches as you pull your yarn through?Continue down the length of the square. I always "end" my whipstitching where I "started" my whipstitching so that my sides are even. I always start my square in the "corner" and end in the "corner". First stitches only, otherwise you will end up throwing off your edging. Every single square gets whipstitched together the exact same way. That way when you go to do your edging and assembly everything fits together perfect, regardless of yarn differences that may make one square stitch up slightly smaller than another. It won't matter to you because you made sure that you had the right amount of stitches at the end of your square and you whipstitched every one of them the same.
Voila, we are done. This is what your whipstitching will look like from the front of your work, with your right sides facing you again.

Rainbow Sparkle Scarf- Beginner Pattern

Rainbow Sparkle Scarf - Beginner
by Elizabeth Mareno 2012

Materials Used:
Yarn Bee- Diva Sequin - Color "Bali"- 1 ball
I Hook
Lg eye needle for finishing

Row 1- Ch22, dc in 6th ch from hook (cts as "dc, ch1"), *ch1, sk next ch, dc in next ch*, repeat *to* across. (10dc, 9 ch1 spaces)
Row 2- ch4, (cts as dc, ch1), turn,*sk ch1 space, dc in next dc, ch1*, repeat *to* across, dc in 5th ch from original ch 6 from the row below.
Row 3- ch4, turn, *sk ch1 space, dc in next dc, ch1*, repeat *to* across, dc in 3rd ch from ch4 from row 2.
Row 4- Finish: Repeat row 3 till you run out of yarn. Finish off and weave in yarn ends.

Do It Your Way Afghan Pattern

Do It Your Way Afghan Pattern
by Elizabeth Mareno 2012

Supplies:
H hook
Scrap worsted weight yarn
Large eye needle for assembly

**I made 90 squares for this lap size blanket. You can use any color combination you want. You can change colors to make rows, or you can make all of the squares the same color. It's all up to you and your creativity! :)**

REGULAR SQUARE:
R1: ch4, sl st to 1st ch to join and make a circle. ch3, make 16 dc in the center of the circle. Join to first dc w/ a sl st. (16 dc)
R2: ch3, (cts as dc), dc in same sp as join, ch2, 2dc in same space (corner made), dc in next 3dc,
*(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next dc, dc in next 3dc*, repeat from * to * two more times. sl st in next dc and ch 2 sp. (28dc, 4 ch2 sp)
R3: ch3, (cts as dc), dc in ch2 sp, ch2, 2dc in ch2 sp, (corner made), dc in 6dc, *(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next ch2 sp, dc in 6dc, * repeat from *to* two more times. sl st in ch3 to join. (44dc, 4 ch2 sp)

STRIPED SQUARE:
Repeat the same for regular square through Row 2. Cut yarn after Row 2 and join with a different color for Row 3.

Cut. Leave a long end to whipstich to next square. (I go from one corner ch2 sp to the other) The original version has 9 squares whipstitched in a row. You can do as many squares as you want. This will determine your blanket's width. Once you have your row whipstitched together, put a border on that row.

BORDER: Use a "Main Color"
Starting in the "upper right" corner of your row, join with a sl st in a ch2 space.( Sc, ch2, sc in corner ch2 space, sc in each sc, hdc dec in the ch2 spaces between squares) repeat this around the row, finish with a slip stitch to the first sc. Finish off, leaving a very long end of yarn to whipstitch your rows together.

My personal suggestion would be that you use the same color as your "Main Color" throughout the blanket. This will help to anchor the blanket and pull all of the crazy color combinations together. :)

Create as many rows as you want. My blanket had 10 rows. This will determine the length of your blanket.

When you have all the rows you want, repeat the border around the outside of the whole blanket.

The biggest deal about this blanket?? Have fun with it! Be creative! Use your imagination! :)

Found my inspiration

Apparently, making more toys right now was just more than I could handle, so I was avoiding my yarn. *gasp* That is a NO-NO!!

So I looked at my yarn and said, "You need to be an afghan!" And it is happily becoming one.